The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
It is true that this incomparable root attacks the enamel of the teeth,
and, indeed, soon spoils them;[IX-182] but why should we be so
particular when so many marvellous properties are in question?
As to its culinary preparation, Apicius recommends us to serve it mixed
with pepper and garum.[IX-183]
GARLIC.
Garlic was known in the most remote ages. It was a god in Egypt.[IX-184]
The Greeks held it in horror. It was part of their military food--hence
came the proverb, “Eat neither garlic nor beans;” that is to say,
abstain from war and law.[IX-185] There was a belief that this plant
excited the courage of warriors; therefore, it was given to cocks to
incite them to fight. The Greek and Roman sailors made as great a use of
it as the soldiers,[IX-186] and an ample provision was always made when
they set out on any maritime expedition.[IX-187] It was a prevailing
opinion that the effects of foul air were neutralized by garlic; and it
was, no doubt, this idea which made reapers and peasants use it so
lavishly.[IX-188]
However, the taste for this vegetable was not always confined to the
people, in the southern countries of Europe; it gained, at times, the
high regions of the court. It is reported that, in 1368, Alphonso, King
of Castile, who had an extreme repugnance to garlic, instituted an order
of knighthood; and one of the statutes was, that any knight who had
eaten of this plant, could not appear before the sovereign for at least
one month.[IX-189]
The priests of Cybele interdicted the entry of the temple of this
goddess to persons who had made use of garlic. Stilphon, troubling
himself very little about this interdiction, fell asleep on the steps of
the altar. The mother of the gods appeared to him in his dream, and
reproached him with the little respect his breath disclosed for her. “If
you wish me to abstain from garlic,” replied Stilphon, “give me
something else to eat.”[IX-190]
The ancients, great lovers of the marvellous, believed that this
despised vegetable possessed a sovereign virtue against the greater
number of diseases,[IX-191] and that it was easy to deprive it of its
penetrating odour by sowing and gathering it when the moon was below the
horizon.[IX-192]
The Greek and Roman cooks used it but very seldom, and it was only
employed as a second or third-rate ingredient in some preparations of
Apicius which we shall hereafter mention.
“Garlic is called the physic of the peasantry, especially in warm
countries, where it is eaten before going to work, in order to guarantee
them from the pernicious effects of foul air. It would be too long were
we to relate all that has been written in favour of this vegetable; let
it suffice to say that it is employed in numerous pharmaceutical
preparations, and among others in vinegar, celebrated by the name of
_aromatic_ vinegar.”--BOSC.
ESCHALOTS.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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