The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
“The Indians grate this root in their broth or _ragoût_; they make a
paste which they believe is good against the scurvy. The inhabitants of
Madagascar eat it green, in salad, cut in small pieces, and mixed with
other herbs, which they season with salt, oil, and vinegar. In other
places ginger is taken infused as a drink; it fortifies the chest, and
awakens the appetite. It is preserved in sugar after it has been
stripped of its bark, and soaked in vinegar. Delicious preserves are
made of it with much perfume, and which keep a very long
time.”--DUTOUR.
WORMWOOD.
The Egyptians had a great respect for the wormwood of Taposiris,--no
doubt on account of the medicinal properties which physicians attributed
to it.
Heliogabalus often regaled the populace with wormwood wine,[X-52] and
the Romans gave it to the victorious charioteers. Pliny thinks this
plant so salutary that nothing more precious could have been presented
to them.[X-53] This explanation appears to have had but little
plausibility, and it has been more rationally supposed that this liquor
prevented or counteracted any giddiness they might feel. “You can cure
yourself of dizziness,” says Strabo, “with the bitter leaf of
wormwood.”[X-54]
The Roman wormwood wine was composed in the following manner:
They bruised one ounce of this vegetable, and mixed it with three
scruples of gum, as much spikenard, six of balm, and three scruples of
saffron; to which was added eighteen _setiers_, or 180 gallons English,
of old wine. This mixture was left to stand some time, but was not
heated or subjected to any other process.[X-55]
In pharmacy, wine is made of wormwood; also a syrup, a preserve, an
extract, oil by infusion, an essential oil, and wormwood salt. It is
supposed that several brewers on the Continent substitute the leaves and
flowers of this plant for hops, in the manufacture of beer. It is,
perhaps, a calumny, and we only repeat it in a whisper.
“The leaves of wormwood are used in salad to make it more digestible and
heighten the flavour. They are preserved in vinegar, and to season
dishes. Lastly, they are considered by some persons as a remedy, and the
frequent use of them to be indispensable for the preservation of their
existence.”--BOSC.
* * * * *
In concluding this chapter, it will be necessary to anticipate a
question which naturally presents itself: did the Romans know the art of
forcing fruits, and of procuring, at one season, the various vegetables
or plants which belong to another period of the year?
Some verses from Martial will leave no doubt on the subject:--
“Whoever has seen the orchards of the King of Corcyrus (Alcinous), dear
Entellus, must have preferred thy rural habitation. Thou knowest how to
preserve from the rigours of winter the purple grapes of thy vine bower,
and prevent the cold frost from devouring the gifts of Bacchus. Thy
grapes live enclosed under a transparent crystal, which covers without
concealing them.
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