The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
“What can avaricious nature refuse to the industry of man? Sterile
winter is constrained to give up the fruits of autumn.”[X-56]
This curious passage gives us to understand that the Romans had
hot-houses and, no doubt, glass bells in their orchards and gardens, to
bring sooner to maturity some of those productions of the earth which,
by their delicate flavour and perfume, raised the insatiable desires of
a people, decidedly the greatest epicureans ever known in the history of
gastronomy to the present day.
XI.
FRUITS.
When the Creator placed the first man in the Garden of Eden, he
commanded him to nourish himself with the fruit it contained;[XI-1] and,
from that epoch, the most ancient which the sacred work records, this
kind of aliment is incessantly mentioned in the history of all nations,
and at every period of their history.
The great Hebrew legislator seems to have considered fruit trees worthy
of his especial care, for he forbad the Jews to cut them down, even on
their enemies’ lands;[XI-2] and, in order to teach his people how to
preserve them in all their vigour, he declares the fruits of the first
three years impure, and consecrates to the Lord those of the
fourth.[XI-3] He even goes further; he exempts from military service any
one who has planted a vineyard, and all fruit trees conferred the same
privilege until the first vintage.[XI-4]
Heathen nations also understood the importance of this branch of
agriculture, and invented protective divinities--such as Pomona,[XI-5]
Vertumnus,[XI-6] Priapus[XI-7]--whose sole care consisted in protecting
orchards from the inclemency of the seasons, and dispelling insects and
robbers, who would damage and plunder the crops.
Each kind had, moreover, a benevolent patron, who could not honestly
refuse to be useful to it: thus the olive tree grew under the auspices
of Minerva;[XI-8] the Muses cherished the palm tree;[XI-9] the pine and
its cone were consecrated to the great Cybele;[XI-10] Bacchus
complacently ripened the perfumed pulp of the fig[XI-11] and the rosy
grape,[XI-12] which placed him on a level with the gods.
Among the Greeks, fruits appeared on table at the second course;[XI-13]
and were eaten either cooked, raw, or in the form of preserves.
The Romans sometimes breakfasted on a small quantity of dried
fruits;[XI-14] but the third course of their _cœna_, or principal
repast, offered an incredible profusion of the productions of their own
orchards, and of those of three parts of the world.[XI-15]
Rich patricians, after they had exhausted all the immense resources of
an incredible luxury--in their garments, habitations, and
banquets--contrived to plant fruit trees on the summit of high towers,
and on the house tops;[XI-16] thus suspending forests over their
heads,[XI-17] as well as vast reservoirs, to keep alive the most
exquisite fish.[XI-18]
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