The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
The Greeks gave hazel nuts the name of “Pontic Nuts,” and Theophrastus
calls them “Nuts of Heraclea,” because the territory of that capital of
the kingdom of Pontus produced the best.[XIV-26]
The Latins, at first, retained the same designation for this fruit, but
afterwards, the environs of Præneste and Avellinum supplying them with a
great quantity of excellent nuts, they gave them the name of those two
cities.[XIV-27] They employed also a diminitive[XIV-28] to indicate
those which came from the first of these localities. The French
_Aveline_ (filbert), and _Noisette_ (hazel nuts), are evidently borrowed
from the Roman vocabulary.
The inhabitants of Præneste raised the nut tree to a sort of religious
worship. This tree had preserved them from famine during the time
Hannibal besieged their city,[XIV-29] and since that memorable epoch it
had enriched them, for the ancients preferred hazel nuts to all other
shell fruit, as possessing most wholesome and nourishing
qualities.[XIV-30]
It was the custom in France, some centuries ago, at the time of the
summer solstice (Midsummer eve), to take all the kitchen utensils and
make the most frightful clatter by knocking them one against another.
The simpletons of those times imagined that there were no better means
of preventing the rain, which, in their opinion, was detrimental to
filberts and hazel nuts.[XIV-31] Hospinian, who relates this ridiculous
custom, does not tell us what results they obtained by all their racket.
PISTACHIO TREE.
This tree, esteemed by the Romans,[XIV-32] is a native of India.[XIV-33]
Lucius Vitellius brought some plants of it from Syria to Rome, under the
reign of Tiberius; a little time subsequently, a knight, named Flaccus
Pompeius, introduced it also into Spain.[XIV-34]
Galen doubted whether pistachio nuts were good for the stomach.[XIV-35]
Avicenna proved the contrary;[XIV-36] and several centuries before the
Arabian physician, Roman epicures had courageously demonstrated that
this fruit never does harm in whatever form it may be presented, whether
raw or roasted, alone or accompanied with garum and salt.
CHESNUT TREE.
According to some writers the chesnut tree owes its name to the city of
Castana, in Thessaly, where they maintained it originated. On the
contrary, it comes from Sardis, in Lydia, if we are to believe the
physician, Diphilus, who calls chesnuts, acorns of Sardis, and says they
are nourishing, but indigestible.[XIV-37]
Amaryllis was fond of this fruit;[XIV-38] but Amaryllis was only a
shepherdess, and her beauty did not prevent her from having rather
rustic tastes. The Roman ladies abandoned the chesnut to that low class
of citizens whose palates, incapable of improvement, remain always
stationary in the midst of the incessant progress of cookery; sad
example of invincible frugality, which the most exciting _fumets_ fail
to arouse.
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