The Paris Sketch Book of Mr. M. A. TitmarshThackeray, William Makepeace
General
The Paris Sketch Book of Mr. M. A. Titmarsh
Thackeray, William Makepeace
Paris (France) -- Description and travel
The street which we enter, that of the Faubourg St. Denis, presents a
strange contrast to the dark uniformity of a London street, where
everything, in the dingy and smoky atmosphere, looks as though it were
painted in India-ink—black houses, black passengers, and black sky.
Here, on the contrary, is a thousand times more life and color. Before
you, shining in the sun, is a long glistening line of GUTTER,—not a
very pleasing object in a city, but in a picture invaluable. On each
side are houses of all dimensions and hues; some but of one story; some
as high as the tower of Babel. From these the haberdashers (and this is
their favorite street) flaunt long strips of gaudy calicoes, which give
a strange air of rude gayety to the street. Milk-women, with a little
crowd of gossips round each, are, at this early hour of morning,
selling the chief material of the Parisian café-au-lait. Gay
wine-shops, painted red, and smartly decorated with vines and gilded
railings, are filled with workmen taking their morning’s draught. That
gloomy-looking prison on your right is a prison for women; once it was
a convent for Lazarists: a thousand unfortunate individuals of the
softer sex now occupy that mansion: they bake, as we find in the
guide-books, the bread of all the other prisons; they mend and wash the
shirts and stockings of all the other prisoners; they make
hooks-and-eyes and phosphorus-boxes, and they attend chapel every
Sunday:—if occupation can help them, sure they have enough of it. Was
it not a great stroke of the legislature to superintend the morals and
linen at once, and thus keep these poor creatures continually
mending?—But we have passed the prison long ago, and are at the Porte
St. Denis itself.
There is only time to take a hasty glance as we pass: it commemorates
some of the wonderful feats of arms of Ludovicus Magnus, and abounds in
ponderous allegories—nymphs, and river-gods, and pyramids crowned with
fleurs-de-lis; Louis passing over the Rhine in triumph, and the Dutch
Lion giving up the ghost, in the year of our Lord 1672. The Dutch Lion
revived, and overcame the man some years afterwards; but of this fact,
singularly enough, the inscriptions make no mention. Passing, then,
round the gate, and not under it (after the general custom, in respect
of triumphal arches), you cross the boulevard, which gives a glimpse of
trees and sunshine, and gleaming white buildings; then, dashing down
the Rue de Bourbon Villeneuve, a dirty street, which seems
interminable, and the Rue St. Eustache, the conductor gives a last
blast on his horn, and the great vehicle clatters into the court-yard,
where the journey is destined to conclude.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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