The Paris Sketch Book of Mr. M. A. Titmarsh; and the Irish Sketch BookThackeray, William Makepeace
General
The Paris Sketch Book of Mr. M. A. Titmarsh; and the Irish Sketch Book
Thackeray, William Makepeace
Ireland -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- Description and travel
The entrance to the capital is very handsome. There is no bustle and
throng of carriages, as in London; but you pass by numerous rows of neat
houses, fronted with gardens, and adorned with all sorts of gay-looking
creepers. Pretty market-gardens, with trim beds of plants and shining
glass-houses, give the suburbs a _riante_ and cheerful look; and,
passing under the arch of the railway, we are in the city itself. Hence
you come upon several old-fashioned, well-built, airy, stately streets,
and through Fitzwilliam Square, a noble place, the garden of which is
full of flowers and foliage. The leaves are green, and not black as in
similar places in London; the red-brick houses tall and handsome.
Presently the car stops before an extremely big red house, in that
extremely large square, Stephen’s Green, where Mr. O’Connell says there
is one day or other to be a Parliament. There is room enough for that,
or for any other edifice which fancy or patriotism may have a mind to
erect, for part of one of the sides of the square is not yet built, and
you see the fields and the country beyond.
* * * * *
This then is the chief city of the aliens.--The hotel to which I had
been directed is a respectable old edifice, much frequented by families
from the country, and where the solitary traveller may likewise find
society. For he may either use the Shelburne as an hotel or a
boarding-house, in which latter case he is comfortably accommodated at
the very moderate daily charge of six-and-eight-pence. For this charge a
copious breakfast is provided for him in the coffee-room, a perpetual
luncheon is likewise there spread, a plentiful dinner is ready at six
o’clock; after which, there is a drawing-room and a rubber of whist,
with _tay_ and coffee and cakes in plenty to satisfy the largest
appetite. The hotel is majestically conducted by clerks and other
officers; the landlord himself does not appear, after the honest
comfortable English fashion, but lives in a private mansion hard by,
where his name may be read inscribed on a brass-plate, like that of any
other private gentleman.
A woman melodiously crying ‘Dublin Bay herrings’ passed just as we came
up to the door, and as that fish is famous throughout Europe, I seized
the earliest opportunity and ordered a broiled one for breakfast. It
merits all its reputation: and in this respect I should think the Bay of
Dublin is far superior to its rival of Naples. Are there any herrings in
Naples Bay? Dolphins there may be; and Mount Vesuvius, to be sure, is
bigger than even the Hill of Howth: but a dolphin is better in a sonnet
than at a breakfast, and what poet is there that, at certain periods of
the day, would hesitate in his choice between the two?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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