France -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
It was an inn. The door opened of itself, and I found there a pleasant
woman of middle age, but frowning. She had three daughters, all of
great strength, and she was upbraiding them loudly in the German of
Alsace and making them scour and scrub. On the wall above her head was
a great placard which I read very tactfully, and in a distant manner,
until she had restored the discipline of her family. This great
placard was framed in the three colours which once brought a little
hope to the oppressed, and at the head of it in broad black letters
were the three words, 'Freedom, Brotherhood, and an Equal Law'.
Underneath these was the emblematic figure of a cock, which I took to
be the Gallic bird, and underneath him again was printed in enormous
italics--
Quand ce coq chantera
Ici credit l'on fera.
Which means--
When you hear him crowing
Then's the time for owing.
Till that day--Pay.
While I was still wondering at this epitome of the French people, and
was attempting to combine the French military tradition with the
French temper in the affairs of economics; while I was also delighting
in the memory of the solid coin that I carried in a little leathern
bag in my pocket, the hard-working, God-fearing, and honest woman that
governs the little house and the three great daughters, within a yard
of the frontier, and on the top of this huge hill, had brought back
all her troops into line and had the time to attend to me. This she
did with the utmost politeness, though cold by race, and through her
politeness ran a sense of what Teutons called Duty, which would once
have repelled me; but I have wandered over a great part of the world,
and I know it now to be a distorted kind of virtue.
She was of a very different sort from that good tribe of the Moselle
valley beyond the hill; yet she also was Catholic-- (she had a little
tree set up before her door for the Corpus Christi: see what religion
is, that makes people of utterly different races understand each
other; for when I saw that tree I knew precisely where I stood. So
once all we Europeans understood each other, but now we are divided by
the worst malignancies of nations and classes, and a man does not so
much love his own nation as hate his neighbours, and even the twilight
of chivalry is mixed up with a detestable patronage of the poor. But
as I was saying--) she also was a Catholic, and I knew myself to be
with friends. She was moreover not exactly of- what shall I say? the
words Celtic and Latin mean nothing-- not of those who delight in a
delicate manner; and her good heart prompted her to say, very loudly--
'What do you want?'
'I want a bed,' I said, and I pulled out a silver coin. 'I must lie
down at once.'
Then I added, 'Can you make omelettes?'
Now it is a curious thing, and one I will not dwell on--
LECTOR. You do nothing but dwell.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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