France -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
AUCTOR. Let me explain. There is a race that stretches vaguely,
without defined boundaries, from the Baltic into the high hills of the
south. I will not include the Scandinavians among them, for the
Scandinavians (from whom we English also in part descend) are
long-headed, lean, and fierce, with a light of adventure in their pale
eyes. But beneath them, I say, there stretches from the Baltic to the
high hills a race which has a curious unity. Yes; I know that great
patches of it are Catholic, and that other great patches hold varying
philosophies; I know also that within them are counted long-headed and
round-headed men, dark and fair, violent and silent; I know also that
they have continually fought among themselves and called in Welch
allies; still I go somewhat by the language, for I am concerned here
with the development of a modern European people, and I say that the
Germans run from the high hills to the northern sea. In all of them
you find (it is not race, it is something much more than race, it is
the type of culture) a dreaminess and a love of ease. In all of them
you find music. They are those Germans whose countries I had seen a
long way off, from the Ballon d'Alsace, and whose language and
traditions I now first touched in the town that stood before me.
LECTOR. But in Porrentruy they talk French!
AUCTOR. They are welcome; it is an excellent tongue. Nevertheless,
they are Germans. Who but Germans would so preserve--would so rebuild
the past? Who but Germans would so feel the mystery of the hills, and
so fit their town to the mountains? I was to pass through but a narrow
wedge of this strange and diffuse people. They began at Porrentruy,
they ended at the watershed of the Adriatic, in the high passes of the
Alps; but in that little space of four days I made acquaintance with
their influence, and I owe them a perpetual gratitude for their
architecture and their tales. I had come from France, which is full of
an active memory of Rome. I was to debouch into those larger plains of
Italy, which keep about them an atmosphere of Rome in decay. Here in
Switzerland, for four marches, I touched a northern, exterior, and
barbaric people; for though these mountains spoke a distorted Latin
tongue, and only after the first day began to give me a Teutonic
dialect, yet it was evident from the first that they had about them
neither the Latin order nor the Latin power to create, but were
contemplative and easily absorbed by a little effort.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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