The Pecan and its CultureHume, H. Harold (Hardrada Harold)
Philosophy
The Pecan and its Culture
Hume, H. Harold (Hardrada Harold)
Pecan
From the time the young shoots begin to appear above the surface
frequent shallow cultivation should be given. Once every ten days or two
weeks is not too often, and the ground should be broken to a depth of
one inch or so after every shower of rain. During dry weather more
frequent cultivation, once every week, will be well repaid in the
additional growth and vigor of the seedlings. A good commercial
fertilizer, analyzing 5 per cent. phosphoric acid, 6 per cent. potash
and 4 per cent. nitrogen, may be applied to advantage at the rate of
fifteen hundred or two thousand pounds per acre. By the following
autumn, the better seedlings will have ten or twelve inches of top, and
two and a half or three feet of taproot. The following spring some may
he whip-grafted at the crown, and by June, July and August of the same
year many of them should have attained sufficient size for budding.
Those which are not of sufficient size at this time can be worked the
following spring and summer.
[Illustration: PLATE IV. A Pecan Nursery.
_Photo by J. F. Jones._]
THE NECESSARY MATERIALS AND TOOLS.
The materials and tools used in grafting and budding are: a grafting
iron, a mallet, budding knives, grafting wax, strips of waxed cloth and
twine.
[Illustration: FIG. 17. Grafting Iron.]
Of grafting irons there are a number of different kinds, but one after
the general type shown in Fig. 17, works very well. It will be noticed
that the blade is curved at the corners, and the edge instead of being
straight is curved downward in the center. This type of blade in some
measure prevents the bruising of the bark when splitting the branch in
cleft-grafting. Such a grafting iron may be made by almost any
blacksmith. However, a good stout knife may be used instead.
[Illustration: FIG. 18. Common Budding Knife.]
For use in grafting, an ordinary budding knife, one of which is
illustrated in Fig. 18, is well nigh indispensable. No other knife is so
well adapted to making the smooth, sloping cuts on the scions.
[Illustration: White's Budding Tool.
Galbreath's Budding Tool.
Nelson's Budding Tool.
PLATE V.]
Some persons can insert annular and veneer shield buds rapidly and well
with nothing but an ordinary budding knife. In general, however, a
budding knife having two blades, placed parallel with a space of
three-quarters of an inch or an inch apart, is best. A very satisfactory
knife may be made by fastening the blades of two ordinary budding knives
on the sides of a piece of wood seven-eighths of an inch square and four
inches in length. The blades can be firmly held in place by means of
rivets and a piece of wire wound about the whole.
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