Each day began with an early hour of routine, walking and
water-drinking before breakfast, amid surroundings equally well
planned--an arcade inclosing a large level space, with an expanse of
water, a band playing, flowers growing in the open, cut flowers for
sale in the arcade and comfortable seats where the doctor permitted
pausing, but no permanent settling down. Thus went the whole day.
Everything was well planned and everything worked. I thought of
America, where so many things look beautiful on paper and so few
things work, because nobody keeps the rules. I thought of our college
elective system, by which every boy was free to study what best fitted
him for his career, and nearly every boy did study what he could most
easily pass examinations in. There was no elective system in Nauheim.
Everybody kept the rules. There was no breakdown, no failure.
Moreover, the civility of the various ministrants to the invalid, from
the eminent professor-doctor down through hotel porters and bath
attendants to the elevator boy, was well-nigh perfect. If you asked
for something out of the routine, either it was permitted or it was
satisfactorily explained why it could not be permitted. Whether at the
bank, the bookshop, the hotel, the railway station or in the street,
your questions were not merely understood--the Germans knew the
answers to them. And every day the street was charming with fresh
flowers and fresh fruit in abundance at many corners and
booths--cherries, strawberries, plums, apricots, grapes, both cheap
and good, as here they never are. But the great luxury, the great
repose, was that each person fitted his job, did it well, took it
seriously. After our American way of taking it as a joke,
particularly when you fumble it, this German way was almost enough to
cure a sick man without further treatment.
III
This serenity of living was not got up for the stranger; it was not to
meet his market that a complex and artificial ease had been
constructed, bearing no relation to what lay beyond its limits. That
sort of thing is to be found among ourselves in isolated spots, though
far less perfect and far more expensive. Nauheim was merely a blossom
on the general tree. It was when I began my walks in the country and
found everywhere a corresponding, ordered excellence, and came to talk
more and more with the peasants and to notice the men, women and
children, that the scheme of Germany grew impressive to me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account