The Personality of American CitiesHungerford, Edward
History
The Personality of American Cities
Hungerford, Edward
Cities and towns -- United States; United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs -- 1865-1918
The Tremont House has gone--it disappeared under the advance of
modernity in the serpent-like guise of the first subway in America,
creeping down in front of it. But other hotels of the old Boston remain
a'plenty, the staid Revere House, Parker's, Young's, the Adams
House,--ages seem to have mellowed but not lessened their comforts to
the traveler. Where else can one find a catalogue of the hotel library
hanging beside his dresser when he retires to the privacy of his room,
not a library crammed with "best-sellers" like these itinerant
institutions on the limited trains, but filled with real books of a far
more solid sort--where else such wisdom on tap in a tavern--but Boston?
And if the traveler fails to be schooled to such possibilities, we might
ask where else in Christendom can he get boiled scrod, or Washington
pie, or fish balls, or cod tongues with bacon, or that magna charta of
the New England appetite, that Plymouth rock from which has come all the
virtues of its sturdy folk, baked beans with brown bread? Eating in
Boston is good. In these things it is superlative. And it is pleasing to
know that Boston's newest hotel--the Copley-Plaza--perhaps the finest
hotel in America, since it has discarded new-fashioned details for the
old--observes the traditions of the town in which it truly earns its
bread and butter.
And if the traveler have magic sesame, the clubs of the old town may
open to him, clubs with spotless integrity and matchless service, all
the way from the stately Somerset and the Algonquin through to the
democratic City Club--with its more than four thousand enthusiastic
members. This last is perhaps the most representative of Boston clubs.
Its old house--unfortunately soon to be vacated--stands in Beacon
street, within a stone's throw of King's Chapel and Tremont street. It
is a rare old house; two houses in fact, lending tenderly to the Boston
traditions of delicate bow fronts and severity of ornament. Its rooms
are broad and long and low, filled with hospitable tables and
comfortable Windsor chairs. In its great fireplace hickory logs crackle
and the New England tradition of an ash-bank is preserved to the
minutest detail. Its dun-colored walls are lined with rare prints and
old photographs--pictures for the most part of that old Boston which was
and which never again can be. The dishes that come out from its kitchen
are from the best of traditional New England recipes. And as your host
leads you out from the dining-room he delves deep into a barrel and
brings out two bright red apples. He hands you one.
"We New England folk think that most of the real virtues of life are
seated in red apples," he says--and there is something in his way of
saying it that makes you believe that he is right.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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