The Personality of American CitiesHungerford, Edward
History
The Personality of American Cities
Hungerford, Edward
Cities and towns -- United States; United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs -- 1865-1918
As a matter of real fact, the "slaves' prison" is probably nothing more
or less than the negro quarters that every oldtime southern hotel used
to provide for the slaves of its planter patrons. But the _concierge_
does not overlook dramatic possibilities. And she is both too deaf and
too much a lady to be contradicted. She has given you full value for the
handful of pennies she expects from you. And as for you--a feeling of
something like indignation wells within you that the city of New Orleans
has permitted the stoutly built old hotel to fall into such ruin. In an
era which is doing much to preserve the monuments of the earlier
America, it has been overlooked.
Such resentment softens a little further down. You are in Jackson square
now--the Place d'Armes of the old French days--and facing there the
three great lions that have stood confronting that open space since
almost the beginning of New Orleans. The great cathedral flanked by the
Cabilda and the Presbytery is not, of itself, particularly beautiful or
impressive. But it is interesting to remember that within it on a
memorable occasion Andrew Jackson sat at mass--interesting because he
had just fought the battle of New Orleans and ended the Second War with
England. And the _Te Deum_ that went up at that time was truly a
thankful one. The Cabilda and the Presbytery, invested as they are with
rare historical interest, are more worth while.
But to our mind the chief delight of Jackson square are the two long
red-brick buildings that completely fill the north and south sides of
that delectable retreat. In themselves these old fellows are not
architecturally important, although by close inspection you may find in
the traceries of their gallery rails the initials of the wife of the
Spanish grandee--Madama de Pontalba--historically they are not
distinguished, unless count the fact that in one of them dwelt Jenny
Lind upon the occasion of a not-to-be-forgotten engagement in New
Orleans--but as the sides of what is perhaps the most delightful square
in the entire Southland they are most satisfying. Jackson square has
fallen from its high estate. Its gardens were once set out in formal
fashion for the elect of New Orleans, nowadays they are visited by
swarms of the cheaper French and Italian lodgers of the neighborhood,
and scrawny felines from the old Pontalba buildings use it as a
congregating place. But, even in decadent days, its fascination is none
the less.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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