The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
"At first they take simply a glass in the morning, and for many
years this suffices. It is a common habit with all workmen, and
any one who did not indulge in it would be ridiculed by his
companions. Then they double the dose, that is to say, take a
glass at morning and night. Thus things continue about three
years, when they begin to drink three times a day, and will only
taste spirits in which highly scented herbs have been infused.
Having reached that point, one may be sure they have not more than
six months to live, for they go to the hospital and are seen no
more."
CHEVALIERS AND ABBES.
I have already referred to these categories of gourmandise
destroyed by time.
As they disappeared thirty years since, few of the present
generation ever saw them.
About the end of the century they will probably reappear, but as
such a phenomenon demand the coincidence of many future
contingencies, I think few who live will ever witness this
palingenesia.
As a painter of manners I must give the last touch to my portrait,
and will borrow the following passage from an author, who, I know,
will refuse me nothing.
"The title of Chevalier was only correctly granted to persons who
had been decorated, or to the younger sons of noble houses. Many
of the Chevaliers of other families would take the title for
themselves, and if they had education and good manners, none
doubted the accolade.
"They were generally young, wore the sword vertically and kept a
stiff upper lip. They gamed and fought and were a portion of the
train of any fashionable beauty."
At the commencement of the revolution many of the Chevaliers
joined the army of the emigres, enlisted or dispersed. The few who
survive can yet be recognized by their military air; almost all of
them, however, have the gout.
When any noble family had many children, one was dedicated to the
church; at first some benefice, barely sufficient to pay for the
expenses of education, was obtained, and ultimately he became
Prince, Abbe, or Bishop, as circumstances dictated.
This was the real Abbe; but many young men who disliked the perils
of the Chevalier, called themselves Abbes when they came to Paris.
Nothing was so convenient, for, with a slight change of dress,
they could appear as priests and the equals of anybody. There was
a great advantage in this for every house had its Abbe
They were generally small, round, well dressed and agreeable. They
were gourmands, active and pleasant. The few that remain have
became very devout and very fat.
None could be more comfortable than a rich prior or abbot. They
had no superiors and nothing to do. If there be a long peace, the
priors will turn up again, but unless there be a great change in
the ecclesiastical organization, the Abbes are lost for ever.
MISCELLANY.--WINE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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