The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
Of commerce, from the fact that it purchases at as low a rate as
possible what it consumes, and displays to the greatest advantage
what it offers for sale.
Lastly it is a chapter of political economy, from the resources it
furnishes the taxing power, and the means of exchange it
substitutes between nations.
Gastronomy rules all life, for the tears of the infant cry for the
bosom of the nurse; the dying man receives with some degree of
pleasure the last cooling drink, which, alas! he is unable to
digest.
It has to do with all classes of society, for if it presides over
the banquets of assembled kings, it calculates the number of
minutes of ebullition which an egg requires.
The material of gastronomy is all that may be eaten; its object is
direct, the preservation of individuals. Its means of execution
are cultivation, which produces; commerce, which exchanges;
industry, which prepares; and experience, which teaches us to put
them to the best use.
DIFFERENT OBJECTS OF GASTRONOMY.
Gastronomy considers taste in its pleasures and in its pains. It
has discovered the gradual excitements of which it is susceptible;
it regularizes its action, and has fixed limits, which a man who
respects himself will never pass.
It also considers the action of food or aliments on the moral of
man, on his imagination, his mind, his judgment, his courage, and
his perceptions, whether he is awake, sleeps, acts, or reposes.
Gastronomy determines the degree of esculence of every alimentary
subject; all are not presentable under the same circumstances.
Some can be eaten until they are entirely developed. Such like as
capres, asparagus, sucking pigs, squabs, and other animals eaten
only when they are young.
Others, as soon as they have reached all the perfection to which
they are destined, like melons, fruit, mutton, beef, and grown
animals. Others when they begin to decompose, such as snipe, wood-
cock and pheasant. Others not until cooking has destroyed all
their injurious properties, such as the potato, manioc, and other
substances.
Gastronomy classifies all of these substances according to their
qualities, and indicates those which will mingle, and measuring
the quantity of nourishment they contain, distinguishes those
which should make the basis of our repast, from those which are
only accessories, and others which, though not necessary, are an
agreeable relief, and become the obligato accompaniment of
convivial gossip.
It takes no less interest in the beverages intended for us,
according to time, place and climate. It teaches their preparation
and preservation, and especially presents them in an order so
exactly calculated, that the pleasure perpetually increases, until
gratification ends and abuse begins.
Gastronomy examines men and things for the purpose of
transporting, from one country to another, all that deserves to be
known, and which causes a well arranged entertainment, to be an
abridgement of the world in which each portion is represented.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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