The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
"I heard you sigh yesterday over that magnificent sole you served
to us, pale, watery and colorless. My friend R. [Footnote: Mr. R--
-, born at Seyssel, in the district of Belley, in 1757, an elector
of the grand college. He may be considered an example of the good
effects of prudence and probity.] looked disapprovingly of it,
M.H.R. turned his gastronomical nose to the left, and the
President S. declared such a misfortune equal to a public
calamity.
"This happened because you neglected the theory, the importance of
which you are aware of. You are rather obstinate, though I have,
taken the trouble to impress on you the facts, that the operations
of your laboratory are only the execution of the eternal laws of
nature, and that certain things which you do carelessly, because
you have seen others do so; yet these are the results of the
highest science. Listen to me, therefore, with attention, that you
may never again blush at your works."
Section 1. CHEMISTRY.
"Liquids which you subject to the action of fire cannot all
receive the same quantity of heat. Nature has formed them
differently, and this secret, which we will call CAPACITY FOR
CALORIC, she has kept to herself.
"You may, therefore, with impunity dip your finger in boiling
spirits of wine; you would take it very quickly from boiling
brandy; more rapidly yet from water; while the most rapid
immersion in boiling oil would heat you easily.
"Consequently warm fluids act differently on the sapid bodies
presented to them. Those subject to water soften, dissolve, and
reduce themselves to boilli. The result is bouillon and its
extracts. Those on the contrary treated with oil harden, assume a
color more or less deep, and finally are carbonized.
"In the first instance, water dissolves and conveys away the
interior juices of the alimentary substances placed in it. In the
second the juices are preserved, for they are insoluble in oil. If
these things dry up it is because a continuous heat vaporizes the
humid parts.
"The two methods have different names, and FRYING is BOILING in
oil or grease substances intended to be eaten. I think I have told
you that officially oil and grease are synonymous; heating the
latter being but a concrete oil."
Section II. APPLICATION.
"Fritures are well received in entertainments into which they
introduce an agreeable variety. They are agreeable to the taste,
preserve their primitive flavor, and may be eaten with the hand, a
thing women are always fond of.
"Thus cooks are able to hide many things that have appeared on the
day before, and remedy unforeseen requisitions on them. It takes
no longer to fry a four pound chop than it does to boil an egg.
"All the merit of the friture is derived from the surprise, or the
invasion of the boiling liquid which carbonizes or burns at the
very instant of immersion of the body placed in it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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