The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
"To effect a purpose, the liquid must be hot enough to act
instantaneously. It does not, however, reach S this point until it
has long been submitted to the action of a blazing and hot fire.
"By the following means it may be ascertained if the friture be
heated to the wished-for degree, cut a piece of bread in the form
of a cube, and dip it in the pan for five or six seconds, if you
take it out firm and dark put in what you wish to prepare
immediately. If it be not, stir the fire and begin again.
"The surprise being once effected, moderate the fire that the
action may not be too hurried, and that by a prolonged heat the
juices it contains may be changed and the flavor enhanced.
"You have doubtless observed that fritures dissolve neither the
sugar nor salt their respective natures require. You should not
fail then to reduce those substances to a very fine powder in
order that they may adhere the more readily, and season the dish
by juxtaposition.
"I do not tell you about oils and greases for the different
treatises I have put in your library give you sufficient light.
"Do not forget, however, when you get one of those trout which do
not weigh more than half a pound, and which come from murmuring
streams, far from the capitol, to use the finest olive oil. This
delicate dish duly powdered and garnished with slices of lemon is
fit for a cardinal. [Footnote: Mr. Aulissin, a very well informed
Neapolitan lawyer, and a good amateur performer on the
violoncello, dining one day with me, and eating some thing that
pleased him, said--"Questo e un vero boccone di cardinale."
"Why," said I, in the same tongue, not say "boccone in Re."
"Seignore," said he, "we Italians do nothing; a king cannot be a
gourmand, for royal dinners are too short and solemn. With
cardinals things are very different." He shrugged his shoulders as
he spoke.]
"Eperlans (smelt or sprat) should be treated in the same manner.
This is the becfique of the water, and has the same perfume and
excellence.
"These two prescriptions are founded in the very nature of things.
Experience tells us that olive oil should only be used with things
which are soon cooked, and which do not demand too high a
temperature, because prolonged ebullition developes an
empyreumatic and disagreable taste produced by a few particles of
pulp, which can, being impossible to be gotten rid of, carbonize.
"You tried my furnace, and were the first person who ever
succeeded in producing an immense fried turbot. On that day there
was great rejoicing among the elect.
"Continue to be coeval in all you attempt, and never forget that
from the moment guests enter the salon WE are responsible for
their happiness."
MEDITATION VIII.
ON THIRST.
THIRST is the internal feeling of a wish to drink.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account