The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
I confessed myself beaten. I replied that nature does nothing in
vain; that she had evidently formed him for certain duties, and
that if he did not fulfil them he contradicted his appearance.
That besides, I had no right to expect such confidence, etc., etc.
There the correspondence terminated, but a few days after all
Paris was amused by the famous encounter between the minister and
his cook, in which his excellency did not get the best of the
matter. If after such an affair the cook was not dismissed, (and
he was not,) I may conclude that the duke was completely overcome
by the artist's talents, and that he could not find another one to
suit his taste so exactly, otherwise he would have gotten rid of
so warlike a servant.
As I wrote these lines, during a fine winter evening, Mr. Cartier,
once first violinist of the opera, entered my room and sat by the
fire. I was full of my subject, and looked attentively at him. I
said, "My dear Professor, how comes it that you, who have every
feature of gourmandise, are not a gourmand?" "I am," said he, "but
I make abstinence a duty." "Is that an act of prudence?" He did
not reply, but he uttered a sigh, a la Walter Scott.
GOURMANDS BY PROFESSION.
If there be gourmands by predestination, there are also gourmands
by profession. There are four classes of these: Financiers, men of
letters, doctors, and devotees.
FINANCIERS.
Financiers are the heroes of gourmandise. Hero is here the proper
name, for there was some contention, and the men who had titles
crowd all others beneath their titles and escutcheons. They would
have triumphed, but for the wealth of those they opposed. Cooks
contended with genealogists; and though dukes did not fail to
laugh at their amphitryon, they came to the dinner, and that was
enough.
Those persons who make money easily must be gourmands.
The inequality of wealth produces inequality of wants. He who can
pay every day for a dinner fit for an hundred persons, is often
satisfied after having eaten the thigh of a chicken. Art then must
use well its resources to revive appetite. Thus Mondar became a
gourmand, and others with the same tastes collects around him.
PHYSICIANS.
Causes of another nature, though far less baneful, act on
physicians, who, from the nature of things, are gourmands. To
resist the attractions set before them they must necessarily be
made of bronze.
One day I ventured to say, (Doctor Corvisart was at the end of the
table--the time was about 1806):--
"You are," said I, with the air of an inspired puritan, "the last
remnant of a composition which once covered all France. The
members of it are either annihilated or dispersed. No longer do we
see farmers general, abbes, chevaliers, &c. Bear the burden they
have bequeathed to you, even if you take the three hundred
Spartans who died at Thermopylae; such a fate should be yours."
Nobody contradicted me.
At dinner I made a remark which was worthy of notice:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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