The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
The patient received it kindly and sought to drink it with
resignation. At the first swallow, however, he stopped, and giving
the glass back to his wife, said, "Take this, dear, and keep it
for the next dose; I have always heard, one should never trifle
with remedies." Men of letters in the world of gastronomy, have a
place nearly equal to that of men of medical faculty.
Under the reign of Louis XIV., men of letters were all given to
drink. They conformed to fashion and the memoirs of the day, in
this respect, are very defying. They are now gourmands,--a great
amelioration.
I am far from agreeing with the cynic Geoffroy, who used to say
that modern works were deficient in power because authors now
drank only eau sucree.
I think he made two mistakes, both in the fact and the
consequences.
The age we live in is rich in talents; they injure each other
perhaps by their multitude; but posterity, judging with more
calmness, will see much to admire. Thus we do justice to the great
productions of Racine and Moliere which when written were coldly
received.
The social position of men of letters was never more agreeable.
They no longer live in the garrets they used to inhabit, for the
field of literature has become fertile. The stream of Hippocrene
rolls down golden sands: equals of all, they never hear the
language of protection, and gourmandise overwhelms them with its
choicest favours.
Men of letters are courted on account of their talent, and because
their conversation is in general piquant, and because it has for
some time been established, that every society should have its man
of letters.
These gentlemen always come a little too late: they are not
however received the most on that account, for they have been
anxiously expected: they are petted up to induce them to come
again, are flattered to make them brilliant, and as they find all
this very natural, they grow used to it and become genuine
gourmands.
DEVOTEES.
Among the friends of gourmandise are many very devout persons.
By the word devotee, we understand what Louis XIV. and Moliere
did, persons the piety of whom consists in external observances;
pious and charitable persons have nothing to do with this class.
Let us see how they effect this--among those who work out their
salvation, the greatest number seek the mildest method. Those who
avoid society, sleep on the ground and wear hair cloth, are always
exceptions.
Now there are to them certain damnable things never to be
permitted, such as balls, plays, and other amusements.
While they and those who enjoy them are abominated, gourmandise
assumes an altogether different aspect, and becomes almost
theological.
Jure divino, man is the king of nature and all that earth creates
was produced for him. For him the quail becomes fat, the mocha has
its perfume, and sugar becomes beneficial to the health.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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