The Picturesque Antiquities of Spain: Described in a series of letters, with illustrations representing Moorish palaces, cathedrals, and other monuments of art, contained in the cities of Burgos, Valladolid, Toledo, and Seville.Wells, Nathaniel Armstrong
Islamic
The Picturesque Antiquities of Spain: Described in a series of letters, with illustrations representing Moorish palaces, cathedrals, and other monuments of art, contained in the cities of Burgos, Valladolid, Toledo, and Seville.
Great, indeed, is the debt they owe to the stirring events that have
immortalized these regions, for they are anything but romantic. Nothing
can be less picturesque;--all the flatness of Holland, without the
cultivation, and the numerous well-peopled villages, which diminish the
monotonous effect. On the right are seen at some distance the wooded
hills of Xeres; but for scores of miles, on the opposite side, all is
either marsh, or half-inundated pasture, with here and there some
thinly-scattered olive trees, and herds of oxen for its sole living
occupants. At a few leagues from Seville, the increased frequency of the
olive grounds--a few villages and convents, and at length the darker
green masses of the orange groves, give rapidly strengthening
indications of approaching civilization; and you are landed a short
distance below the town, to reach which, it is necessary to traverse the
Christina Gardens. The cathedral occupies this southern extremity of the
city; and on your way to the inn, you may make an estimate of the length
of one side of its immense quadrangular enclosure. Immediately beyond
this you are received into the inevitable labyrinth of crooked lanes,
peculiar to an Arab town.
The steam trip from Cadiz is so easy a day's journey, that no necessity
for repose or refitting interferes with the impatience of those who
arrive to explore the external town. You speedily, therefore, sally
forth, and thread a few of the mazy streets; but without venturing too
far, on account of the evident risk of losing your way. Should you
chance to stumble on the Plaza Mayor,--called Plaza de San
Francisco,--you are at once rewarded by the view of the _ayuntamiento_,
one of the most elegant edifices in Spain: otherwise the extreme
simplicity of the bare, irregular, but monotonous white houses, will
create disappointment--you will stare about in the vain search of the
magnificence, so much extolled, of this semi-Moorish capital, and
discover, that nothing can be plainer, more simple, more ugly, than the
exterior of the Seville habitations. At length, however, some open door,
or iron grille, placed on a line with an inner court, will operate a
sudden change in your ideas, and afford a clue to the mystery. Through
this railing, generally of an elegant form, is discovered a delicious
vista, in which are visible, fountains, white marble colonnades,
pomegranate and sweet lemon-trees, sofas and chairs (if in summer), and
two or three steps of a porcelain staircase.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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