Every one whose lot it may have been to undertake a journey of several days in a Diligence,--that is, in one and the same,--and who consequently recollects that trembling and anxious moment during which he has passed in review the various members of the society of which he is to be, _nolens volens_, a member; and the feverish interest which directed his glance of rapid scrutiny towards those in particular of the said members with whom he was to be exposed to more immediate contact, and at the mercy of whose birth and education, habits, opinions, prejudices, qualities, and propensities, his happiness and comfort were to be placed during so large and uninterrupted a period of his existence,--will comprehend my gratitude to these fair _émigrées_, whose lively conversation shortened the length of each day, adding to the charms of the magnificent scenery by the opportunity they afforded of a congenial interchange of impressions. Although we did not occupy the same compartment of the carriage, their party requiring the entire interior and _rotonde_, we always renewed acquaintance when a prolonged ascent afforded an opportunity of liberating our limbs from their confinement. The two daily repasts also would have offered no charm, save that of the Basque _cuisine_,--which, although cleanly and solid, is not perfectly _cordon bleu_,--but for the entertaining conversation of my fair fellow-travellers, who had treasured up in their memory the best sayings and doings of Arnal, and the other Listons and Yateses of the French capital, which, seasoned with a slight Spanish accent, were indescribably _piquants_ and original. My regret was sincere on our respective routes diverging at Burgos; for they proceeded by the direct line over the Somo sierra to Madrid, while I take the longer road by the Guadarramas, in order to visit Valladolid. I shall not consequently make acquaintance with the northern approach to Madrid, unless I return thither a second time; as to that of my fellow-travellers, I should be too fortunate were it to be renewed during my short stay in their capital. LETTER IV. ARRIVAL AT BURGOS. CATHEDRAL. Burgos.