The Picturesque Antiquities of Spain: Described in a series of letters, with illustrations representing Moorish palaces, cathedrals, and other monuments of art, contained in the cities of Burgos, Valladolid, Toledo, and Seville.Wells, Nathaniel Armstrong
Islamic
The Picturesque Antiquities of Spain: Described in a series of letters, with illustrations representing Moorish palaces, cathedrals, and other monuments of art, contained in the cities of Burgos, Valladolid, Toledo, and Seville.
A worthy and excellent native of Toledo, to whose antiquarian enthusiasm
(a quality doubly valuable here from its scarcity) I am indebted for
some information and much entertainment, undertook one day to enlighten
me with regard to the origin of this subterranean curiosity. Commencing
by warning my credulity against the innumerable fables current on the
subject, and which only resembled each other in their absurdity and
impossibility, he added, "The real fact is this,--the cavern is the work
of Hercules, who excavated it for the accommodation of the assemblies of
the people, whom he instructed in the elements of magic."
The convent of Santiago, or of Santa Fé, or of Las monjas santiagistas,
or Las cavalleras, occupies the portion of the ancient Moorish alcazar,
remaining from the site of the two last-mentioned buildings. It is built
round two courts, one of which is divided into planted parterres,
intersected with brick-paved walks. The architecture of this first court
is very simple; it consists of a plain arcade of semicircular arches
supported on square piers, and a repetition of the same on the first
story. From this court opens the parlour of the Commendadora or abbess,
and the choir, which forms a continuation of the public chapel. There is
also under the arcade a folding door, which, when opened exhibits a
collection of small pictures attached to it, as on the leaves of an
album, and others suspended against the portion of wall it encloses. The
centre painting of these last represents the Mater dolorosa weeping over
the dead body of her Son. It has much of the manner of Alonzo Cano, and
is an admirable painting, more especially the dead body: the superior,
however, did not know the name of the artist. She complained bitterly of
the loss of a first-rate picture of the Divino Morales, which formerly
occupied the place of her little collection, and which was taken
possession of by Marshal Soult.
The second court is highly ornamental owing to the elegance of its
architecture, and its magnificent proportions; it is a long quadrangle;
the pillars below are very lofty, and support the gallery above without
intermediate arches. They are not of a pure design, the shafts being too
long for their diameter: in other respects they imitate the Tuscan
order. Those of the arcade above are Ionic; but the effect here is
destroyed by walls and windows, which have been constructed in their
intervals, for the purpose of converting the open gallery into a warmer
corridor. The walls below are clothed to the height of about four feet
with the _azulejos_, or porcelain mosaic, of the sort originally
employed by the Arabs, and from which the ornament took its name, being
blue and white, without any other colour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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