This noble thoroughfare, as we drove slowly along that I might admire
its grandeur and beauty, was thronged with people going to and coming
from the city. There were processions returning from having deposited
their dead in one of the many tombs which covered the vast plain;
processions of the humbler orders, with but few signs of display and
wealth, proceeding, with real mourners, to the tomb. There were groups
of children, their hands filled with garlands, going to place them
upon the sarcophagus of a departed parent; for the custom of
decorating the resting-places of the dead with wreaths often renewed,
belongs to Egypt as well as to Syria.
We overtook a rich lady in a gilded palanquin, borne on the shoulders
of four slaves. She was opulently and handsomely attired, and carried
a blue and green fan, while an attendant walked behind and held over
her head a large parasol.
Two chariots, containing young Egyptian lords, dashed by us at full
speed in the excitement of a race, each driving his own ornamented
car, the charioteers standing a little in the rear.
People selling little images of gods, or of eminent deceased persons,
or fruit, or flowers, or scarabæi, and amulets, were seated all along
the highway, upon pedestals, or in the shade of statues and tombs;
while along the road walked sellers of vegetables, and fowls, and
bread. Indeed, the way was crowded with life and activity. With no
other people would the avenue to its tombs be the most thronged of
any, and the favorite of all in the city; for Memphis, which extends
from and includes Jizeh, past the pyramids south for six miles, has
noble streets, but none like this leading to the pyramids. The
Egyptians say that the house is but the temporary abode of man, but in
the tombs his embalmed body dwells forever. "Let us, therefore,
decorate our tombs with paintings and art, and fill them with flowers,
and adorn the homes which are to be permanent."
Hence the "dead-life" of the sepulchres is not less a reality to the
Egyptian than his life in the city. The poor, however, do not find
tombs. They are buried in graves or pits, like the Hebrew people. On
the other side of the river lies the most ancient burial-place of
Memphis; but since the construction of the Lake of the Dead, it is no
longer necessary to cross the Nile (for the dead _must_ be ferried
across water) for interment.
As we drove on, we came to a stately sepulchre, before which was
gathered a large multitude. The coffin had just been removed from a
gorgeous hearse and set down upon the step of the tomb. It was the
funeral of a lady. I never saw any painting so rich as that which
adorned the mummy-case. It was an Osirian coffin, and covered in every
part with columns of hieroglyphics or emblematical figures, among
which were represented the winged serpent, the ibis, the cynocephalus
or the genii of Amenthe, and the scarabæus.
"The hieroglyphics," said my companion, "contain the name and
qualities of the deceased."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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