After walking around the columned avenue of this great mausoleum, we
began the ascent of the larger pyramid, known as that of Cheops; the
other bearing the name of Chephres, as the high-priest informs me; and
the third, which towers in its own unaided grandeur farther to the
south, being that of Pharaoh-Men-Cherines. We found the ascent
extremely difficult--indeed, in ancient times it must have been
impossible, when its polished and beautiful casing remained entire;
but this having been removed by time and accident in many places, and
purposely in others, a path, if it may be so termed, is made to the
summit. We were aided by attendants of the temple, who from long
practice ascend with ease, assisting also those strangers who would
climb the perilous height.
As we reached half-way, a block, which had been removed from its place
either by the irresistible force of a sirocco from the desert, or by
lightning, gave the high-priest and myself a welcome resting-place.
As we stood here a few moments, I looked down upon the prospect below.
The sight at first made me dizzy, for we were elevated four hundred
feet above the base. I seemed to be suspended upon wings above an
abyss, and a dreadful desire to throw myself out into mid-air seized
me; so that to resist it I closed my eyes and clung firmly to the
attendant. It soon passed off, and I gazed down upon the vast
quadrangle, the persons in which looked no bigger than ants, while the
three colossi of the gods, in the centre, were reduced to the natural
size of men.
Opposite, not six hundred cubits distant, stood Chephres. From each
pyramid swept the avenues of columns and the great wall connecting
both with the central temple and its pylon. From the grove of palms,
curled up into the pure orange-colored atmosphere a blue cloud of
incense, where some priest offered at one of its shrines.
Again we mounted upwards, and, after incredible fatigue, gained the
summit--not without peril, for a slip of the foot or the hand, each
block being as high as a man's neck, would prove fatal. Indeed, more
than one life has been lost in falling down the side of the pyramid. A
prince of Midian, a country in Arabia, lost his life last century by
losing his hold and falling from Chephres, which is more difficult of
ascent than Cheops, (or Chuphu), as the priests there call its name.
How shall I describe to you, my dear mother, the scene which burst
upon my vision, as I gazed about me from this mountain-like elevation!
As I ascended, the prospect of the country enlarged at every step, but
now I seemed to behold the earth itself spread out beneath me. The
place where we stood, which looks from below like a sharp apex, is a
platform several cubits across, on which twenty men could stand or
move about with ease.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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