The shores of Egypt were reached by us on the seventh day, without any
accident to my fleet. It was two hours after the sun rose that we came
in view of the low line of land which marks the entrance to the
"Garden of the World," and from which open the seven gates of the Nile
into the great blue sea.
Upon ascending to the castle for bowmen on the highest mast of the
ship, I could discern the tall columns erected by King Menes at the
chief entrance of the river, from the summit of each of which at night
blazes a wonderful flame, said to have been invented by the Magi of
Egypt. As our galley rowed nearer the faint line of coast, I could see
numerous ships coming out and entering the Pelusian branch of the
Nile,--some of them in the interior so far, that only their tops could
be seen above the level land. I was now suddenly surprised with a
change in the color of the sea, which, from an emerald green, became
clouded with an intermixture of tawny water, thick with mud, that
seemed to flow upon the surface of the sea, as if lighter than itself.
I soon perceived that this was the outrush of the river against the
sea, with which it refused wholly to intermingle and lose itself,--as
if the proud Father Nilus reluctantly yielded his power, so long
wielded for a thousand miles, to the sceptre and dominion of the god
of the Mediterranean. Yet the latter--so vast was the volume of the
yellow waves of the former--was forced a league from the shore before
the conquered Nile ceased to resist his fate.
The sun shone upon the battlements of the great city of Pelusium--the
oldest fortified place in Egypt, and called "the Key of Egypt," and
also "the Strength of Egypt"--and lighted up the terraces of its
gardens and temples; but the admiral told me that every year the
deposit of the Nile is covering them, and that ere many centuries no
trace will be left of a city which is older than On or Memphis. We
saw, from the deck, palaces and obelisks and groves in the suburbs,
and further inland a country of wonderful beauty and of the highest
cultivation, but as level as the sea, from which it is elevated but a
few feet. The muddy and wonderful Nile is overflowing annually these
pleasant maritime plains; and as the plane of the Delta is steadily
raised, these ancient cities and palaces and this fair land will
become a fen for the stork and the sea-mew! How different the site of
Tyre, my dear mother! Built upon the firm coast, and defended by
nature, it will stand forever as the key of Syria and of the East; and
to the end of time the commerce of the world will flow into the
palace-like warehouses of its opulent merchants!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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