[88] An _artiste_ thus advertises in the _Times_:--“THE FAN.--The most graceful mode of using this elegant companion, so indispensable to the distinguished, will be imparted by a lady who is well skilled in an exercise so charming and fascinating in the brilliant society of the continent, particularly of the Court of Spain. A fortnight’s practice would remove that impression of inaptitude and want of grace, hitherto so apparent in its use in the most fashionable circles in this country. The lady will be at home from 12 to 4 on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday of each week, commencing the 10th of January. _The lessons are for the select few_, at five guineas the course. For cards of address apply to Mde. Ramazzoti, French Room, Soho Bazaar.” [89] “Furthermore, I ordain and command that no Jewesses of our kingdoms shall wear mantillas with lace or trimmings.”--_Ord. John II._, Cifuentes, July, 1412. [90] The _Magasin des Demoiselles_, (October, 1847,) which ought on such a subject to be a good authority, says that coarse lace was first used by the priests and women in the time of Francis I., soon after two varieties appeared called _Visette_, and _Gueuse_: next appeared, from the manufacturers of Brussels, &c., _Mignonette_, _La Compour_, and lastly _La Guypure_, sometimes embellished with silk and gold and silver thread. The original patterns of the guypure resemble those of the lace which at present is known by that name. These, strongly meshed, run and entwine, capriciously imitating the forms of the architecture of the “_rénaissance_,” which evidently suggested it. The guypures in narrow strips are called “_tête de more_.” [91] At Jerusalem the fringes _Tzetzes_ were sometimes so long that carpets were carried about to bear them on. [92] Nicod, Monnet, Henri, Etienne, dictionaries of the eighteenth century, do not contain the word Dentelle. In the Encyclopedie Méthodique is mentioned a work published in 1587, being a translation and a third edition of Frederick de Vinciolo Venilæri, of which the title is “Le Réseau premier et la point coupé et locis de plusieurs beaux et dìfferens pour traicts de reseaux de point de côté avec le nombre de mailles, chose non encore vue ni inventée.” The engravings seem to represent two kinds of lace, figures forming a _toilé_ without field, _i. e._ guypure; the other figures on a square thick-set ground or net work as in Valenciennes appliquées. Of the same period, a set of engravings representing the avocations of men (by Dubruyn and A. V. Londerseel) shows a girl at work on lace with the cushion now in common use on her knee. Colbert protected it in 1629. [93] “They (the Moors) have Festival days instituted of old by the Christians, whereupon they use certain ceremonies which themselves understand not.... When their children’s teeth begin to grow, they make another feast called, according to the Latins, _Dentilia_.”--LEO AFRICANUS, Book iii. _Description of Fez._