The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1Urquhart, David
History
The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1
Urquhart, David
Morocco -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
Spain has been called a “fragment of Africa;” the Spaniards have been
called “the Arabs of Europe.” They have proved alike inscrutable and
indomitable to all who have attempted to study or subdue them; and
so completely has that peninsula swayed in the events of our world,
that you may calculate the ascent or the decline of great enterprises
according to the estimation of her by its conductors. Marius, Pompey,
Napoleon, failed through their misjudgment of Spain: by apprehending
her, Cæsar won the diadem, Scipio saved his country, and Wellesley
Europe.
Whenever Europeans have judged of Spain, they have been at fault;
whenever they have acted upon her, they have failed; whenever they have
administered nostrums to her, she has suffered. _Madrid_ presents the
features of European governments: _Spain_ preserves the character of
the Moorish people--the character that enabled them to expel the Moors,
in after times the English, and more recently the French; and the
capital is actually in arms against the spirit of the age. The familiar
forms we see at Madrid, the glibness with which the diplomatist speaks
of this thing and that, this party and that, paves the way to plans
and schemes;--then intervenes the unknown element, the spirit of the
Spanish people, and capsizes all the plots.
If Europe is the source of the evils of Spain, so is Spain the source
of the dangers of Europe. As she cannot leave our follies alone until
she be wise, so can we not leave her affairs alone till we be honest.
It requires little to secure the good will of a Spaniard: in fact, it
is secured when he is not offended. A question addressed with deference
will always meet a courteous answer, and a ready offer of service and
assistance. If you ask a Spaniard your way, he will not be content with
pointing it out to you: he will generally accompany you. If you exceed
the strict bounds of civility, you lay him under an obligation; if you
do less, you have done him a wrong, which as surely he will remember. A
little kindness goes a great way; and the worst of injuries is mistrust.
An English merchant in this neighbourhood, having no money in his
pocket, gave a handful of cigars to a beggar: the poorest Spaniard will
be more gratified with a cigar than with money, as it is a compliment.
Three years afterwards, this merchant was seized near his country-house
by a band of robbers. While they were settling his ransom, they were
joined by an absent comrade, who instantly dismounted and, approaching
the Englishman, saluted him, and asked if he did not remember having
given at such a place and time a handful of cigars to a beggar; then
turning to his comrades he said, “This is my benefactor--whoever lays a
hand on him lays it on me.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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