The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1Urquhart, David
History
The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1
Urquhart, David
Morocco -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
The Cazaba, the fortress with the beautiful gate, has a separate
government, and is inhabited by a distinct people; a remnant of
a tribe, the Oudaïah, which, on the failure of the plans of the
Sultan against Clemcen, in 1832, was sacrificed to the public
indignation--against himself. They furnish an instance of the tenacity
with which these races, or rather families, cling to life. The shred
of the broken tribe settled in these ruins has still friends, as they
told me, but a long way off, in the desert beyond Timbuctoo. After the
revolution of Rabat, they were seized by the like fancy, when their
Caïd, apprehending mischief, took sanctuary in the tomb of a saint.
The Sultan, Spartan-like, would not violate it, but converted it into
a prison. Prisons, without doors or guards, were to be seen, in the
time of Muley Ismael; it being customary with him to order a culprit to
gaol, as with us an officer is put under arrest.
The beautiful quarter of the Cazaba had been offered to the Jews, but
refused, for fear of exposure in case of war. They selected the eastern
angle of the town nearest to the great tower, for the Jewry, and it
is impossible to imagine any thing more filthy. The narrow passages
between the houses are divided into heaps of dung, and holes of rats.
The first house I visited contained no less than fifty souls. It was
a hollow square with columns, and bright colours, and mosaics; with
fragments of Gothic fret-work and corridors; and so small and neat, and
so densely peopled with heads stuck out from every pigeon-hole above,
below, and around, that it was like a toy-shop or a piece of mechanism
brought on the stage, or a little gem theatre of itself. I defy the
most active and pains-taking imagination to picture to itself a Moorish
house; it is quite impossible to describe it, yet equally so to resist
making the attempt: I will, however, await a more fit occasion, or a
more congenial humour.
From the roof (for like that of Rahab at Jericho, it was built on the
city wall) we had a good view of the tower. On my expressing a desire
to go to it, they uttered exclamation on exclamation, and could not
have been more dismayed, had I proposed to them to wade to the dreaded
bar. They told me that a Jew, if he ventured into the grounds below,
would be shot like a duck or a dog, and that a Christian would fare no
better. There are nineteen places of, or rather rooms for, worship.
They do not use the word synagogue;--they say, Beth-el-Elim, House of
Knowledge. This carries these settlements to a period antecedent to the
Greek rule, when the term synagogue was introduced.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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