The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1Urquhart, David
History
The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1
Urquhart, David
Morocco -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
At last I have met a janissary! Here only that proscribed race could
find a resting-place for their foot. The persecuted, the tracked and
hunted of all times, creeds, and systems, have found here their last
home. The ocean here stopped the wanderer and the fugitive; the desert
afforded them cover. His delight was unbounded: he has been following
me about all day. The old janissary was of the Oda “FISH.” He showed
me the fatal mark upon his arm. He took me to visit some Algerines
who were employed in spinning silk, and in embroidery. They unbosomed
themselves, and I discovered, although I might have known it before,
that the Moors and the Algerines are two. One of these men had property
in, I think, Tlemsin, which the French had offered to restore to him;
but he preferred staying where he was, because not afflicted by the
_sight_ of the French. Our dress, and especially our uniform, produces
a painful impression upon the eye of the eastern, and I could refer
in illustration to Napoleon’s remarks on military costume when in
Egypt, as given in the great work of the “_Victoires et Conquêtes des
Français_.”
At Tangier I had to take up my quarters in a Jew’s house, and I went
there late--merely to sleep; but that was out of the question, for
the Jews collected in the _patio_, or centre court, made too much
clatter. One night I was invited to tea by a party of Moors, from Fez,
who were occupying an apartment in the same house. This happened to
be my first meeting with the gentlemen of the country--and I shall
not forget it. They wore large white turbans; were very portly, with
sallow countenances, broad faces and foreheads. The haïk or white gauze
web, in which they are wrapped in the streets, was laid aside, and
they were seated cross-legged in a small circle with the tea-tray in
the middle. Tea, and a large quantity of sugar, and sweet herbs, are
put into the pot together. It was the first time I had heard the name
of Abd-el-Kadir pronounced. I introduced it by asking them what news
of the “_Emir_?” A sudden movement of surprise followed: they turned
glances of astonishment the one to the other. One of them inquired
what was thought of the Emir in Europe? I answered it was known that
he was fighting in defence of his native land. There the conversation
dropped. I, at the time, imagined this reserve to be prudential; but
they hate him as an Algerine, and fear him as a disturber. They urged
upon me that France was repeating in Algiers her former game in Egypt;
and England doing the reverse of what she had done; and that France,
stretching to Tunis on the one side, and to Morocco on the other,
would involve Europe in war. I was often stopped in the streets with
questions about the fortifications of Gibraltar.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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