The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1Urquhart, David
History
The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1
Urquhart, David
Morocco -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
In the “Tyrian” (Sarrano) style, the hair is divided over the forehead,
turned back with an ample fold, the ends fastened behind: the back
hair is divided and plaited, and hangs down the back; and no doubt
formerly, as in the East and in Barbary, silk of the colour of the hair
was plaited in and hung down to the heels in tassels. There appears to
be a reason why this style was called “Tyrian.” The Jewesses wear their
hair bound upon the head in a very elaborate manner, with feathers,
a cushion, and handkerchief, the Tyrian being all open and exposed.
I find that I am concurrently using the past and present tenses,
referring at one moment to the spot where I am; at the next to the
times of Hiram and Solomon; but, in fact, they are so intermingled that
it is impossible to dissever the Scriptural descriptions and the things
themselves.
The other style is _moño_;--and has also a foreign association not,
however, with Jerusalem, but with Paris, for it has been recently
imitated there. The front hair, parted, is plaited on each side into
one plait, then rolled as a wheel upon the temple, and fastened by a
hair-pin. The back hair is gathered light, and secured behind by a
riband. It is then divided into two parts and plaited; these are turned
up like a bow, and secured by the same riband. The bow (I mean of the
hair) is then twisted, so as to spread on both sides, resting on the
nape of the neck. It derives its name from _moño_, which is a large
rose of variously-coloured riband, which is sometimes used to set it
off. It is placed on the crown of the head: from it hang two tassels of
gold or silver, lace or embroidery.
There is no gown of a piece; the costume is in separate parts: the
sleeves and body may be of any colour. They are, out of doors, covered
by the mantilla; like it, the petticoat is black: formerly it was not
above two yards in width, and fell to the _mi-jambe_ with weights
round to keep it down. In a discussion on these subjects with Spanish
ladies, an English gentleman maintained, on the authority of Murray’s
new “Guide-Book,” which had just come out, and which had been looked
forward to with as much expectation as it produced disappointment,
that only recently the ladies of Cadiz had taken to show their feet:
that, “formerly, they wore their petticoats so long that you could not
tell if they had any feet at all.” This produced an exclamation of
astonishment and anger. A Gaditana mentioned that, having returned in
1823 from Paris to Madrid in the wake of the French army, bringing her
mantilla with her, she sent for a milliner to order the other parts
of the Spanish dress. The milliner told her that her Paris dresses
would do, for that nothing else was worn; on which she apostrophised
the _artiste_ thus:--“Go out into the streets with mantilla and long
petticoats!” Her astonishment equalled her indignation at seeing this
hideous petticoat imposed on Spaniards, who, as she said, did not
require it, not having “feet an ell long.”
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