The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1Urquhart, David
History
The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1
Urquhart, David
Morocco -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
That which would strike the stranger as most extraordinary, is our
having one costume in the morning and one in the evening; one dress
which lives only in daylight, another which never sees the sun. This
is a peculiarity for which no age and no race afford a parallel.
Take Cherokee or ancient Egyptian, Hindoo, Athenian, Hottentot, or
Kamschatdale, you will not find one who has dressed his body according
to the motions of the sun and earth; or held a checked waistcoat, or
a close-bodied gown as appropriate at one hour and inappropriate at
another. When dress was associated with respect, change either by the
hour or month was impossible: the man was then more than the food and
the body--than the raiment;--change could only become habitual where
such feelings were dead; and then dress, escaping from the guidance of
taste, became the trappings of vanity. This evening-dress of Europe is
the common in-door dress, slightly disfigured, of the Spanish lady.
The veil and fan, the chief adornment of the female costume, are
from Spain; so also is that richest and most distinguishing of its
materials, _lace_.
Barbara of Brabant has received the credit of the discovery; but her
share can extend no further than to the mode of working in flax. The
texture in silk and cotton must have been carried thither by the
Spaniards. In the beginning of the fifteenth century, the word _blonda_
is found in a Castilian law,[89] it is referred to as a manufacture
in general use, and consequently long established. It was not known in
Europe for at least a century later.[90]
Lace is to be seen in every hut, on every domestic
article:--pillow-case, napkins, sheets--it is a national type, and
must be of ancient date; in all likelihood, from that common source of
Spanish things, Judæa. In this conclusion, I was confirmed by finding
in Barbary the term _Guipoör_. It is used by the Jews for the festival
of atonement, when they wear white mantles in the synagogue, with the
fringes in open embroidery. The name of the country was given to the
texture. The texture, then, comes from the Jews.[91]
The word _dentelle_[92] is explained as meaning the teethlike points of
the serrated border lace, as distinguished from the Guipoör, Mechlin,
Brussels, and English point, &c. But there was an ancient festival
in Spain on the occasion of the child cutting its teeth, which was
known to the Christians under the name of Dentilia.[93] Such would be
a fitting time for the display of this finery. Whoever has seen the
festival of _Corpus Christi_ in Spain, or Portugal, will understand
how natural it was to give the name; for on it all the procession, or
at least all the public functionaries to this day, wear scarfs of lace
over their uniforms.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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