The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
To become a connoisseur of sausages in all their protean phases is no
simple task. Only a German may analyse intelligently all the species
and varieties, from the huge Cervelat of Braunschweig and goose-liver
Trüffelwurst of Strassburg to the Salamis of Gotha and Blutwurst of
Schwaben. And as the sausage is fashioned with a special view to its
harmonious combination with beer, it is self-evident that one must be
a beer-drinker of experience in order to pronounce upon the virtues
of a given kind. "Wurst" and "Durst," Uhland long since pointed out,
not only rhyme, but belong together in a material way. But by this he
in no wise implied that one might choose a variety at random, with no
thought of consonance as regards its liquid accompaniment, or even
that one should be unmindful of climatic conditions. Thus the variety
that blends best with the dark, potent Gerstensaft of Nürnberg as
one quaffs it in great Seidels thick with its head of creamy foam
in the Mohrenkeller, or in cool Steins in the Bratwurst-Glöcklein,
would be entirely out of place as a complement to the amber Pilsener
of Austria, the Weiss beer of Berlin, or even the many malt extracts
of Württemberg. It is likewise equally easy to understand that a
particular sausage which might appeal to one in Hanover might be
utterly incongruous to the climate of the Elbe or the Neckarthal.
The delicate Bockwurst, composed of veal and pork, should be used with
Bock beer, for which it was especially designed. The juicy Knackwurst,
with its flavour of garlic, which belongs to the family of the
Frankfurt and Wienerwurst, is eminently worthy its exalted place as a
garnish to Sauerkraut, where the Mettwurst and the Schwartenmagen would
sound a discordant note. To determine the precise kind that should be
taken with the Münchner Hof-Bräu, as it is dispensed in the Café and
Garten of the Hotel Royal at Stuttgart, where the regal beer of Munich
reaches its apotheosis, would require a more extended experience than
might be contributed by the writer. A Knackwurst, possibly, may be
suggested during the summer, and a Bratwurst in winter. And yet this
would depend largely upon the hour of the evening, as well as on the
recommendations of the Kellnerin. Not more dissimilar are the hams of
the thick-jowled swine of Westphalia and those of the long-snouted
brindled hogs of Rothenburg an der Tauber, than are the various
sausages of different districts. Indeed, with the sausage alone Germany
might form a rampart round the world, and float a navy upon her daily
tide of beer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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