The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
How they shine in their silken skins, these triumphs of the
_Metzgerei_, seen through the plate-glass of a Delikatessen shop--ebon
and bronze, russet and red, blonde and grey, mottled and veined, of
all hues and all sizes: long and slender, plump and fat, curved like a
crescent, round-barrelled and egg-shaped, as if their juices and spices
were eager to be set free; some that gain in succulence by time; others
that, like the rose, have but their hour in which to be plucked.
An essentially south-German dish is the Metzelsuppe--the
"bouillabaisse" of Swabia--in which the sausage plays an important
role, but which, to be appreciated, requires an essentially German
taste as well as a digestion without limit. This consists of several
preparations of freshly killed pork, including soup, bacon, and
sausages with Sauerkraut, the sausages usually being the Leber and the
Blutwurst. It has found its Thackeray in Uhland, whose poem has become
a classic, although, with the possible exception of the bacon and
Sauerkraut, the alien will find the poem preferable to the dish.
With a choice of a different soup for every day in the year, the German
does not lack for variety in the stepping-stone of the dinner. With all
of these the stranger may not be in sympathy, and in none of them will
he find the equal, as an all-round preface to the principal repast, of
a perfect Julienne. But the potato soup, the native pot-au-feu, and
even the soup in which beer is an important ingredient, have their
merits when well prepared. Nor is the boiled beef with horseradish
sauce, which usually follows the soup, to be despised, notably in
warm weather, when rich and heavy viands cloy. One would be equally
lacking in appreciation were he to lose sight of another dish we owe
to Germany, the "marinirte," or sour-spiced herring--that offset to
_Katzenjammer_ and noon-restorer of a jaded appetite and a parched
tongue. The Schmierkäse, or whey-cheese, when cream is employed in
its composition and the green of fresh chives enters as an adjunct to
please the eye and the palate, surely requires no praises, whatever may
be said to the contrary of the variety whose very name one thinks of in
a whisper.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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