The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
One can almost hear the music of the stream as it purls over its pebbly
bed and whispers to the overhanging alders, while one marks the leap
and glitter of trout and their prompt transition to the basket and the
frying-pan. And lest these lovely denizens of spring-fed waters be
overlooked in a subsequent chapter, it will be well to attach at once
the instructions as to their mode of cooking of another author, in whom
one is sure of an admirable guide, philosopher, and friend:
"They are so perfumed, these little trout," says Baron
Brisse, "that it is sufficient to cook them in a light
_court-bouillon_, and as soon as they are perfectly cold to
eat them _au naturel_; all seasonings detracting from their
savour. _Truites au court-bouillon._ Clean the trout by the
gills, dry them carefully, tie up the heads, then cook them in
a _court-bouillon_ made of white wine seasoned with slices of
onion, sprigs of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and salt, adding a
little bouillon; let them simmer until completely done, dry
them, and serve on a napkin garnished with parsley. If a sauce
is desired, mix a part of the _court-bouillon_ with butter and
flour, reduce one half on a lively fire, and serve. _Truites
à la Vosgienne._ After dressing the trout, sprinkle with
salt and let them stand an hour. Then place them on the fire
with the necessary quantity of white wine for their cooking,
seasoning with onions, cloves, a _bouquet-garni_, a clove of
garlic, salt, pepper, and butter mixed with flour; cook on a
lively fire, lay out the trout on a platter, and mask them
with the sauce passed through a sieve."
These modes of preparation, all of which are delicious, will not
interfere with preparing them _à la matelote_ and _au gratin_, or the
more common manner of frying them in butter, with a thin slice or two
of salt pork and a dash of lemon and sprinkling of chopped parsley
added to the sauce of the cooking. The best of sauces, however, is the
sauce of catching the trout one's self--to hear with one's own ear the
cool lapse of streams "that murmur far from the capital," and view the
rubies at first hand as they flash from the _Salmo's_ roseate sides.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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