The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, or Brillat de Savarin, was born at Belley, in
the department of the Ain, in 1755, the "Physiologie du Goût" appearing
in 1825, a year previous to his death. The volume was the outcome of
a lifetime of preparation for which his temperament and circumstances
afforded abundant opportunity. Like La Reynière, he was a lawyer by
profession, and, like him, he became an exile for a considerable
period. He had received a careful education, the early part of his life
being devoted to his legal practice, medical and chemical studies,
and epicurean pleasures. He was fond of music, the fair sex, and good
dinners, this triple penchant revealing itself frequently in his
anecdotes. When thirty-eight years of age, he was elected mayor of
Belley. Later, after sojourning in Switzerland, he visited the United
States for a period of three years to introduce to New England the
_fondue_--a dish which he proclaims of Swiss origin and from which
the "Welsh rarebit" was derived. On his return to France he became
a commissary of the government in the department of Seine-et-Oise,
afterwards being appointed a counsellor in the Court of Cassation, a
position he occupied during the remainder of his life. While engaged in
this tribunal, his volume was leisurely composed.
Lyons, celebrated for its _cervelas_, chestnuts, beer, and _vin de
Rivage_, was but a short distance from his native place, and it may be
assumed that when tired of home fare he availed himself occasionally of
its numerous markets and restaurants, and enjoyed the hospitality of
its _bons-vivants_. Game was abundant in the Ain, a region he describes
as "a charming country of high mountains, hills, rivers, limpid brooks,
and cascades." Nor were trout wanting in its crystal waters--a delicacy
that often graced his table and furnished him with one of his most
picturesque recipes. He is speaking in his oracular way to his chef,
in the admirable Meditation entitled "The Theory of Frying," a chapter
that every cook should learn by heart:
"I say nothing about choosing oils or fats, because the
various cook-books which I have placed in your library give
sufficient information on that hand. Do not forget, however,
when you have any of those trout weighing scarcely more than
a quarter of a pound and caught in running brooks that murmur
far from the capital--do not forget, I say, to fry them in the
very finest olive oil you have. This simple dish, properly
sprinkled and served up with slices of lemon, is worthy of
being offered to a cardinal."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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