The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"For myself, I am not only persuaded that without the
participation of smell there is no perfect taste, but I am
even tempted to believe that smell and taste form only one
sense, of which the mouth is the laboratory and the nose the
chimney; or, to speak more exactly, that the tongue tastes
tactile substances, and the nose gases. This theory may be
vigorously defended.
"All sapid bodies must be necessarily odorous, which places
them as well in the empire of smell as in the empire of taste.
"We eat nothing without smelling it with more or less
consciousness; and for unknown foods the nose acts always as a
sentinel, and cries, 'Who goes there?'
"When smell is interrupted, taste is paralysed. This is proved
by three experiments, which any one may make successfully:
_First_, when the nasal mucous membrane is irritated by a
violent cold in the head, taste is entirely obliterated.
In anything we swallow there is no taste. The tongue,
nevertheless, remains in its normal state. _Second_, if we
eat whilst holding tight our nose, we are much astonished
to experience the sensation of taste only in an obscure and
imperfect manner. By this means the most nauseous medicines
are swallowed almost without tasting them. _Third_, we see the
same effect if, at the moment we have swallowed, instead of
bringing back the tongue to its usual place, we keep it close
to the palate. In this case the circulation of the air is
intercepted, the organs of smell are not affected, and taste
does not occur. These different effects depend upon the same
cause, the lack of coöperation of the smell, which makes the
sapid body to be appreciated only on account of its juice, and
not for the odoriferous gas that emanates from it.
"These principles being thus laid down, I regard it as certain
that taste gives rise to sensations of three different
orders, namely: _direct_ sensation, _complete_ sensation, and
_reflex_ sensation. Direct sensation is that first perception
which arises from the immediate operation of the organs of
the mouth, whilst the appreciable body is yet found on the
point of the tongue. Complete sensation is that which is
composed of this first perception and of the impression which
originates when the food abandons this first position, passes
into the back part of the mouth, and impresses the whole organ
with both taste and perfume. Reflex sensation is the judgment
of the mind upon the impressions transmitted to it by the
organ."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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