The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
To no other writer may one turn so satisfactorily for an interpretation
of the word "gastronomy," a word which belongs by right to him.
Previous to his exegesis, gluttony and gastronomy had been more or
less confounded. It is true that the poem of Berchoux is entitled "La
Gastronomie," but the term was not defined by the poet, nor do the
piquant pages of the "Almanach" refer to the art "of having excellent
cheer" under that term. The true epicure, as distinguished from the
gross eater, had long stood in need of the definition and distinction.
"The gastronomer is nearly always a sage," it has been observed--a
statement borne out by the "Dictionnaire de la Conversation," which
characterises this science as "the art of living, of eating worthily,
properly, as a man of taste, character, and judgment." It will prove of
interest, therefore, to those who are unfamiliar with the "Physiology"
to refer to the third Meditation, and note the French savant's
elaborate analysis of the word:
"Gastronomy is the rational knowledge of all that relates to
man as an eater.
"Its object is to watch over the preservation of men by means
of the best nourishment possible.
"It arrives thereat by laying down certain principles to
direct those who look for, furnish, or prepare the things
which may be converted into food.
"Thus it is gastronomy that sets in motion farmers,
vine-growers, fishers, hunters, and the numerous family
of cooks, whatever may be their title, or under whatever
qualification they may disguise their occupation of preparing
food.
"Gastronomy is connected--
"With natural history, by its classification of alimentary
substances.
"With physics, by the investigation of their composition and
their qualities;
"With chemistry, by the different analyses and decompositions
which it makes them undergo;
"With cookery, by the art of preparing food and rendering it
more agreeable to taste;
"With commerce, by the search for means to buy at the cheapest
rate possible what is consumed by it, and selling to the
greatest advantage that which is presented for sale;
"Lastly, with political economy, by the resources which it
furnishes to the authorities for taxation, and by the means of
exchange it establishes among nations.
"Some knowledge of gastronomy is needed by all men, since it
tends to increase the allotted sum of human happiness; and the
more easy a man's circumstances, the more advantages does he
gain from such knowledge."
Summing up, he pronounces its material subject to be everything that
may be eaten; its direct object, the preservation of individuals; and
its means of execution, cultivation which produces, commerce which
exchanges, industry which prepares, and experience which invents the
means of turning everything to the best account.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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