The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"The charcoal shortens our lives," said Carême; "but what matter?--we
lose in years and gain in glory." A born epicure, he never risked
his health by over-indulgence of his epicurean taste. "I have been
prudent," he states, "not by inclination, but through a profound sense
of my duty." To his culinary accomplishments he joined those of a
master director and maître-d'hôtel. Witness his remarks concerning the
functions of a chief steward:
"The _maître-d'hôtel cuisinier_ should possess that
unification of qualities which is seldom bestowed, even in
an isolated form. He will be a cook, above all--able, alert,
productive; he will be cut out for active command and be
animated by an invincible ardour for work; he will be a man
of parts, an enthusiast, vigilant even to minuteness. He will
see all, and know all. The maître-d'hôtel is never ill. He
presides over everything, his impetus dominates all; he alone
has the right to raise his voice, and all must obey. He must
be sufficiently learned to write out, when occasion calls
for it, without the aid of books, the principal part of his
bills of fare. These are his book of resources, the journal of
his fatigues and his victories. Alas! that which he may not
preserve in these copies are the spontaneous fire and ready
tact he has displayed in connection with his ranges--these are
things of the moment that die at their birth."
Many anecdotes of the famous gastronomers and great personages of
his time have been recounted by Carême. To Cambacérès he refers at
length, disputing his claim to a distinguished place among epicures.
The cuisine of the arch-chancellor, he states decisively, never
merited its great reputation. This was through no fault of his chef,
M. Grand'Manche, an excellent practitioner, but was due solely to the
excessive parsimony of his employer, who at each service was in the
habit of noting the entrées that were untouched or scarcely touched,
and of forming his _carte_ for the morrow with their remains.
"What a dinner, merciful heavens! I would not say that the
dessert may not be utilised, but that it may not supply a
dinner for a prince and an eminent gastronomer. This is a
delicate question; the master has nothing to say, nothing to
see; the skill and probity of the cook alone should enter
into the facts. The dessert should only be employed with
precaution, skill, and especially in silence.
"The arch-chancellor received from the departments innumerable
gifts of provisions and the finest of poultry. All such were
forthwith engulfed in a vast larder of which he retained the
key. He kept tally of the provisions, the dates of their
arrival, and he alone gave orders for their utilisation.
Frequently, when he issued his orders the provisions were
spoiled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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