The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"Cambacérès was never a gourmand in the scientific acceptance
of the word; he was naturally a great and even voracious
eater. Can one believe that he preferred, above all dishes,
the _pâté chaud_ with forcemeat balls?--a heavy, unsavoury,
and vulgar dish. As a _hors-d'œuvre_ he had frequently a
crust of pâté reheated on the grill, and had brought to table
the _combien_ of a ham that had done duty for the week. And
his skilful cook who never had the grand fundamental sauces!
neither his under-cooks or aids nor his bottle of Bordeaux!
What parsimony! what a pity! what an establishment!
"Neither M. Cambacérès nor M. Brillat-Savarin knew how to eat.
Both were fond of strong and vulgar things, and simply filled
their stomachs. This is literally true. M. de Savarin was a
large eater, and talked little and without facility, it seemed
to me; he had a heavy air and resembled a parson. At the end
of a repast his digestion absorbed him, and I have seen him go
to sleep."
Charles Monselet has termed Savarin a mere seltzer drinker, while Dumas
says he was neither a gastronomer nor a gourmet, but simply a vigorous
eater. "His large size, his heavy carriage, his common appearance,
with his costume ten or twelve years behind the times, caused him to
be termed the drum-major of the Court of Cassation. All at once, and a
dozen years after his death, we have inherited one of the most charming
books of gastronomy that it is possible to imagine--the 'Physiologie du
Goût.'"
"My work is a manual to be ceaselessly consulted," Carême remarked
with reference to his "Maître-d'Hôtel Français." The truth of this
assertion becomes manifest at once on reading the exquisitely careful
directions which characterise all his treatises. The published works
of the versatile author-chef include "Le Maître-d'Hôtel Français,"
"Le Cuisinier Parisien," "Le Pâtissier Royal Parisien," "Le Pâtissier
Pittoresque," and "L'Art de la Cuisine Française au Dix-neuvième
Siècle," in several of which the copious illustrations reveal his skill
as a draughtsman. His death occurred while giving a lesson in his art.
The day of his decease one of his scholars gave him some quenelles
of sole to taste. "The quenelles are good," he remarked, "only they
were prepared too hastily; you must shake the saucepan lightly." In
so saying he indicated by a slight motion the movement he desired
to communicate. But after two or three motions his once facile hand
refused to respond to his will, and the great artist was no more.
"The asparagus plumps out at the name of Carême!" exclaimed one of his
admirers; "the hare that roams the forest utters his name to the stag
who passes by; the stag repeats it to the pheasant; the lark sings it
in his flight to the sun."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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