The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"Bruise one stick of cinnamon and twelve cloves, and put them
into a small stewpan with two ounces of sugar and the peel
of one lemon pared off very thin and perfectly free from any
portion of white pulp; moisten with three glasses of port
wine, and set the whole to simmer gently on the fire for a
quarter of an hour; then strain it through a sieve into a
small stewpan containing a pot of red-currant jelly. Just
before sending the sauce to table, set it on the fire to boil,
in order to melt the currant jelly, so that it may mix with
the essence of spice, etc."
The second sauce is made in the same manner, except that black-currant
jelly is substituted for the red. Good Bordeaux may be employed in
place of port to advantage, rendering the sauce less cloying, and half
the prescribed quantity of cloves will be found amply sufficient.
After Francatelli, Alexis Soyer did his part towards the improvement
of the higher classes of England. As an author he was ambitious, if
not distinguished, his published works numbering four, viz.: "The
Gastronomic Regenerator," "The Modern Housewife, or Ménagère," "The
Panthropheon or History of Food," and "A Shilling Cookery for the
People." From the fact that the last-named volume reached its two
hundred and forty-eighth thousand, it may be concluded it was not a
distinguished work, and was written to attract the multitude who do
not appreciate. The warm reception given to his "Ménagère," according
to a reviewer in "Fraser's Magazine," indicated, "with a statistical
accuracy very superior to the census, the lamentably small number of
educated palates and self-comprehending stomachs which this country
possesses." Like Carême, Soyer had studied the cuisine of the ancients
attentively, and in this respect his "History of Food" becomes a
valuable addition to the student's library. But his execution is said
to have been far below his conception, and his soups much inferior
to his soup-kitchens. He refrains from giving a certain recipe for
crawfish _à la Sampayo_, which appeared in one of his bills of fare,
on account of an agreement between himself and M. Sampayo, adding that
the reason of the enormous expense of the dish was that "two large
bottles of Périgord truffles, which do not cost less than four guineas,
are stewed with them in champagne." But inasmuch as the virtues of
the truffle are sadly dissipated in its preserved state, and chefs
generally use an ordinary Chablis or other wine in place of champagne,
one need not be seriously concerned with the loss of the crawfish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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