The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
As the quotation of recipes would call for considerable space, it may
be wise to dispense with any further illustrations in the instance of
the above-mentioned artists, and pass at once to the French author
of the never-failing grace whose grand "Dictionary of Cookery" is
marked by that felicity of expression and fecundity of invention so
characteristic of all his works. From the somewhat stilted style of
Soyer it becomes doubly pleasing to turn to the laughing pages of
Dumas, at once suggestive and inspiring, pointed in paragraph and
scintillant with anecdote.[28]
The author of "Monte Cristo" and "The Three Musketeers" has also
left an illustrious name as a cook, a host, and an epicure. And if,
of all celebrated artists, it might be Carême whom one would wish to
prepare the dinner, who more delightful than Dumas as a vis-à-vis at
the repast? But his expansive smile and his _bonhomie_ are reflected
in his writings, and his "intuition of all" is no less apparent when
dealing with cookery than when detailing the intrigues of cardinals and
courtiers. A Chartreuse becomes as important as the missing necklace
of a queen, and the theory of frying no less momentous than the fate
of the prisoner of the Château d'If. As Octave Lacroix has phrased it,
"Assuredly it is a great attainment to be a romancist, but it is by no
means a mediocre glory to be a cook.... Romancist or cook, Alexandre
Dumas is a chef, and the two vocations appear in him to go hand in
hand, or rather to be joined in one."
The two introductory epistles, an anecdotal review of the art, are
among the most felicitous in the language. Nor should we forget the
many references to the table in the "Impressions de Voyage" and
numerous other volumes. The Marquis de Cussy, Jules Janin, Charles
Monselet, and others have treated the same subject at more or less
length, but none of them so comprehensively. "I wish to conclude,"
Dumas often said, "my literary work of five hundred volumes by a
work on cookery." This was his great ambition, and to it he devoted
his most zealous efforts. "I see with pleasure," he remarks in one
of his volumes, "that my culinary reputation is increasing, and soon
promises to efface my literary reputation.... I therefore make the
announcement that as soon as I am freed from the claims of certain
editors I will show you a book of practical cookery by which the most
ignorant in matters gastronomical will be able to prepare, as easily as
my honourable friend Vuillemot, an _espagnole_ or a _mirepoix_."[29]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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