The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
With Dumas to promise was to fulfil, and in due time his book--the last
volume from his pen--appeared, a tall folio of over a thousand pages,
with the spirited etching of the author by Rajon. While this is more
especially devoted to the French kitchen, it contains a large number of
recipes from foreign countries where the author had travelled. It thus
becomes a compendium of many different schools, offering a wide range
for selection. Written, moreover, by an amateur, it is also an easier
guide than many of the professional manuals of the _haute cuisine_. In
the "Dictionary" everything is passed under review--from snails _à la
provençale_ to the feet of elephants, from filets of kangaroo to lambs'
tails _glacées à la chicorée_, the list of fishes including an account
of the origin of the term "Poisson d'Avril" (April fool).
[Illustration: "L'ART DU CUISINIER" (BEAUVILLIERS)
Facsimile of title-page. 1824, Vol. II.]
Even the babiroussa, or wild Asian hog, is not forgotten, the author
pronouncing its flesh very delicate, and presenting this additional
information concerning its character:
"'Ah! mon Dieu,' asked a lady of her husband, as they were
looking at a babiroussa at the Jardin des Plantes, 'what kind
of an animal is that, my dear, who instead of two horns has
four?'
"'Madame,' said some one who was passing by, 'that is a
widower who has remarried.'"
There are recipes from Beauvilliers, Carême, the Marquis de Cussy, and
the cook of King Stanislas; from the manuals of the times of Louis
XIV and XV; from the cafés Anglais, Verdier, Brébant, Magny, Grignon,
Véfour, and Véry; from Elzéar-Blaze, La Reynière, the Provincial
Brothers, and Vuillemot, proprietor of the Tête Noire at St. Cloud.
One's mouth waters as he reads the vast alphabet of dishes. There are,
for example, thirty-one modes presented for preparing the carp, and
fifty-six for dressing the egg, apart from the omelet, with sixteen
recipes for artichokes and a dozen for asparagus. There is the Java
formula for cooking halcyons' nests, and that of the cook of Richelieu
for _godiveau_, a dissertation on the hocco, and a prescription for
bustards _à la daube_. No wonder that Dumas has defined the dinner as
a daily and capital action that can be worthily accomplished only by
_gens d'esprit_.
This is well illustrated by an anecdote in the dedicatory epistle to
Jules Janin, which shows the characteristic hand of Dumas to advantage:
"The Viscount de Vieil-Castel, brother of Count Horace de
Vieil-Castel, one of the finest epicures of France, made this
proposition at a gathering of friends:
"'A single person can eat a dinner costing five hundred
francs.'
"'Impossible!' was the simultaneous exclamation.
"'It is well understood,' resumed the Viscount, 'that by the
term eating is included drinking as well.'
"'Parbleu!' replied his friends.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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