The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"In five minutes he appeared, saluted the Viscount, took six
bills of a thousand francs from his pocket, and presented them
to him.
"It was the amount of the wager.
"'Oh, Monsieur,' said the Viscount, 'there was no hurry;
besides, perhaps you would have liked your revenge.'
"'You would have granted it to me?'
"'Surely!'
"'When?'
"'Immediately.'"
But the reputation of the Viscount as a _belle fourchette_ was exceeded
by that of a Swiss guard in the employ of the Maréchal de Villars, an
account of whose prowess is related by the "Journal des Défenseurs":
"One day the guard was sent for by the Maréchal, who had heard
of his enormous appetite.
"'How many sirloins of beef can you eat?' he tentatively asked.
"'Ah! Monseigneur, for me I don't require many, five or six at
the most.'
"'And how many legs of mutton?'
"'Legs of mutton? not many--seven to eight.'
"'And of fat pullets?'
"'Oh! as to pullets, only a few--a dozen.'
"'And of pigeons?'
"'As to pigeons, Monseigneur, not many--forty, perhaps fifty.'
"'And larks?'
"'Larks, Monseigneur?--always!'"
Another example of marvellous capacity is furnished by the French army,
a captain wagering one day that a drummer of his company could eat
a whole calf. The drummer, proud of his distinction, promised to do
honour to the captain's compliment. Accordingly, a calf was prepared
in various appetising ways, and was being promptly disposed of by
the drummer. When he had finally consumed about three quarters of the
repast, he paused for another draught of wine, and, placing his knife
and fork on his plate, said to his superior officer:
"You had better have the calf brought on, had you not? for all these
little kickshaws will end in taking up room."
The Café de Paris, first opened in 1822 on the Boulevard des Italiens
in the large suite of apartments formerly occupied by Prince Demidoff,
was the best restaurant in Europe during the forties and in Dumas'
time--a position it probably occupies to-day, since the closing of
Bignon's. Alfred de Musset was accustomed to say that "one could not
open its door for less than fifteen francs." But if its charges were
high, its cuisine and service were unsurpassed. Those who dance must
pay for the piping, and the cotillion of the casseroles is no exception
to the rule. Every one who honoured the establishment, it is said, was
considered by the personnel a grand seigneur for whom nothing could be
too good. When Balzac one day announced the arrival of a distinguished
Russian friend, he asked the proprietor to put his best foot forward.
"Assuredly, Monsieur, we will do so," was the answer, "because it is
simply what we are in the habit of doing every day." Balzac's favourite
dish was _veau à la casserole_, a specialty of the Café de Paris in the
forties.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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