The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Rossini, a contemporary and friend of Balzac and Dumas, was not alone a
famous musician,--composer of "Tell" and the "Stabat Mater,"--but was
also a distinguished _fourchette_ and a cook of ability. One of his
most celebrated compositions--that of a certain manner of preparing
macaroni which is said to have vied in seductiveness with the sweetest
strains of the "Barbier de Seville"--is unfortunately lost to the world
through a prejudice of Dumas.
One day the great romancist, who never ate macaroni in any form, asked
the noted composer for his recipe, being anxious to add it to his
culinary repertoire. "Come and eat some with me to-morrow at dinner,
and you shall have it," was the answer. But the host, perceiving that
his guest would not touch a dish on which he had bestowed so much
pains, refused to give him the formula, whereupon Dumas circulated the
report that it was his cook, not Rossini, who was master of the secret,
and forthwith presented at length a recipe given him by the famous Mme.
Ristori as "the true, the only, the unique manner of preparing macaroni
_à la néapolitaine_."
Already in 1830 the excessive charges of the fashionable restaurants
were loudly complained of. On this subject the "Nouvel Almanach des
Gourmands" of that date says:
"The Boulevard Italien is the privileged seat of the
cafés-restaurants: there one may dine excellently, but it must
be confessed one is cruelly plucked. From this fact has arisen
the proverb, 'One must be very hardy to dine at the Café
Riche, and very rich to dine at the Café Hardi.' May it not
be added that one needs to be an English peer to dine at the
Café Anglais, and a millionaire Parisian to try the Café de
Paris? One may dine well at Véry's, but one will ruin himself;
while the fish which is excellent at the Rocher de Cancale is
scarcely exchanged for its weight in five-franc pieces."
Often in the midst of a dinner, on tasting of some novel dish at his
favourite restaurant, the Café de Paris, Dumas would lay down his
fork--"I must get the recipe of this dish." The proprietor was then
sent for to authorise the novelist to descend to the kitchens and hold
a consultation with his chefs. He was the only one of the habitués to
whom this privilege was ever allowed; these excursions were usually
followed by an invitation to dine with Dumas a few days later, when his
newly acquired knowledge would be put into practice.
There were those, nevertheless, that previous to the advent of the
"Dictionary" were sceptical as to Dumas' culinary accomplishments.
Among such was Dr. Véron, author of the "Mémoires" and founder of
the "Revue de Paris," who, with several other notabilities, had been
invited by the novelist to partake of a carp of his own preparation.
For days and days Véron, who was extremely fond of fish, talked of
nothing else to his _cordon-bleu_.
"Where did you taste it?" said Sophie, becoming somewhat jealous of
this praise of others,--"at the Café de Paris?"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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