The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
By the ancient Egyptians the flesh of the swine was held to be impure.
So was that of the camel, the cony, and the hare; so also the fat of
the ox or of sheep or of goat. "Every beast of the wood or the hedge
or the burrow, over and above the beasts of the chase and the warren,
according to the ancient writers, is to be called 'rascal.'" The hog
is likewise placed under ban by the Hindus and strict Buddhists, and
is still generally regarded as unclean by the Mohammedans. But the
Mohammedans and Hindus have no cuisine worthy of the name, and what
were a cuisine without the resources supplied by his inexhaustible
larder! The religious tenet of the Israelites by which the swine is
proscribed as an article of diet is honoured more in the breach than
in the observance. The Chinese have ever been fond of his savoury
flesh, and it may be said that with nearly all nations he forms one of
the leading staples of consumption. With the onion and that priceless
herb parsley, which stimulates appetite, facilitates digestion, and
renders nearly all sauces more attractive, he forms one of the most
indispensable adjuncts of alimentation. Deprived of his lardship, the
onion tribe, and parsley, cookery would soon decline, if indeed the
skilled practitioner would not find it well-nigh impossible to exercise
his art.
Despite what slanderous tongues of the East may utter to his
discredit, therefore, the weight of evidence as to his utility remains
overwhelmingly in his favour. We do not necessarily require him in our
parlours; his true place is the kitchen and the dining-room. Think how
unendurable life would be without him! Of all beasts he is the one
whose empire is most universal, and whose worth is least attested. It
is true that a eulogistic but now unprocurable work of forty-eight
pages was written in Modena in 1761 by D. Giuseppe Ferrari, with the
title "Gli Elogi del Porco." A treatise entitled "Dissertation sur
le Cochon," by M. Buc'hoz, published in 1789, is also cited. But as
this appeared in a series of monographs relating to coffee, cacao, and
various fruits, and has been passed by without comment, it probably
treats the quadruped merely from a sordid point of view, and possesses
no interest unless to the husbandman and stock-raiser.
Few have sung his praises, and, with the exception of Southey's
colloquial poem, no genethliac has been addressed to him in English
rhyme. Monselet has apostrophised him in a poem wherein he terms him
"cher ange," and M. Pouvoisin, in "La Mort du Goret," has tenderly
referred to him as "mon frère." His _oraison funèbre_ is worthy of
Bossuet:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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