The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The boar's head, likewise, how suggestive of good cheer! It at once
takes one back to the great baronial dining-halls, the Knights of
the Round Table, and the feasts and wassails of eld. It suggests the
joyous festivals of harvest-home and Yule, with the chief table on the
dais and the tables for retainers and servants, when the family and
attendants assembled amid the blaze of the great hearth-fire and the
music of the harpers and minstrels.
Again, consider his lovely appetite, exquisite digestion, and
imperturbable slumbers that many a millionaire would gladly part with
half his riches to obtain. The papillæ of his tongue are never furred
by dyspepsia, flatulence, gout, or the spleen. Proverbially on the
best of terms with his stomach, he needs no podophyllin, bicarbonates,
or Hunyadi. Sudden variations of temperature affect him not, while
all latitudes are equally conducive to his longevity. Ennui is to him
unknown, and life is never a burden, unless it be the trifling burden
of the weight he carries. He sleeps and eats and digests, and in his
own way solves the problem of content that is still unsolved by man.
His blithesome Porkship! his graces steal into the heart insensibly
if one be a minute philosopher. No cock-crowing or turkey-gobbling,
no lowing of kine or bleating of flocks, no screaming of hawks or
cawing of crows may vie as an expression of the rural landscape with
his complacent grunt of satisfaction and "high-piping _Pehlevi_" of
triumph. A vibrant chord of melody when snouted and bristled disputants
crowd and jostle around the trough or squeal and scramble within the
pen, it yet requires a more potent mediumship to draw forth in its
fullest measure the piercing treble of the porcine lyre. Rather let us
hear it, _arrectis auribus_, rising sonorously along the highway or
drifting adown some reverberant lane, with the dog as the plectrum of
the ham-strings. Thomson, less gracious but more observant than Lamb,
recognised his accomplishments as a lyrist, and in a stanza in "The
Castle of Indolence," a complement to the stanza cited from "The Faerie
Queene," thus apostrophises his power of song:
"Ev'n so through Brentford town, a town of mud,
An herd of bristly swine is pricked along;
The filthy beasts that never chew the cud
Still grunt and squeak, and sing their troublous song,
And oft they plunge themselves the mire among:
But aye the ruthless driver goads them on,
And aye of barking dogs the bitter throng
Make them renew their unmelodious moan;
Ne ever find they rest from their unresting fone."
Like Spenser, Thomson has grossly traduced him, except so far as his
musical gifts are concerned, though in this respect he might have been
more discriminating in the use of his adjectives. Why "troublous" and
"unmelodious," in place of expressing his thrilling _arpeggio_ of song?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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