The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
No better cookery, independent of any special school, is to be met
with than that of the superior restaurants and hotels of the American
metropolis and numerous clubs within and without its confines. The
cookery of the capital of the United States, as it exists in many of
the better restaurants and in private houses where Southern dishes
are especially well prepared, is deservedly celebrated. The New
Orleans kitchen has also its ardent admirers; but outside of New York
the restaurants of San Francisco are perhaps the most famous and
cosmopolitan. Receptive and creative, America has learned from all, and
added to acquired knowledge the results of her own inventive genius.
The era of fried steak, saleratus biscuits, and "apple floating-island"
has happily long since passed, and already in many instances an
American dinner has come to be recognised as among the very best it is
possible to obtain. A well-prepared Châteaubriand is no longer confined
to the Café Riche, or a bisque d'écrevisses to Voisin or to Lapérouse.
In none of the useful arts has progress been more marked in this
country during the past decade. Even in remote New England villages a
leg or a saddle of mutton is rarely sent to table with all its juices
and excellences dissipated, as one commonly finds it on the _tables
volantes_ of the prominent English restaurants. And for the omnipresent
"greens" of Great Britain in winter--the Brussels sprout, distended to
thrice its size and deprived of all its pristine delicacy by crossing
it with the cabbage--there are with us countless vegetables to choose
from.
Luxuriant diversity, in fact, is a marked characteristic of American
cookery, whatever faults may be found with its methods as frequently
practised. Yet, the too lavish multiplicity of dishes, usually at the
expense of quality, which has characterised the breakfast and dinner
of the average hostelry conducted on a fixed charge is disappearing,
and hotels on the European plan are becoming more in request yearly.
The cooking-school, likewise, is rapidly contributing its share towards
the evolution of eating, wherein wholesomeness and variety are properly
regarded as a means of health, enjoyment, and longevity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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