The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The luxuries of a few years ago have become necessities now; and
one notes on every hand the better physical development produced by
improved alimentation and an increased understanding of the laws of
hygiene. No nation possesses so wide a field for administering to its
most minute wants at all seasons and under all conditions. The woods,
the waters, and the plains vie with one another in their contributions
to the table. If we have not the truffle, we have the mushroom. If we
are without the turbot and sole, we have the whitefish, the shad, the
flounder, the bluefish, the weakfish, the striped-bass, the frost-fish
and pompano--the choice from ice-cold to tropical waters, the range
from the Atlantic to the Pacific--with oysters unequalled in delicacy
and cheapness; while we not only grow vegetables in profusion, but
in infinite variety and of superlative excellence. When one thinks
of the oysters, with their rank, tinny, fishy flavour and their high
admission fee, that do duty in England and on the Continent alike,
one may trebly appreciate the delicate Blue Point, the Narragansett,
Glen Cove, Millpond, Lynn Haven, Cherrystone, Rockaway, Shrewsbury,
and the many other tributes of the "deep sea" wherein the very essence
of the ocean seems concentrated. Of wholesome fruits the supply and
kinds are boundless, while animal food in nearly all its forms is
nowhere found in greater perfection. Nor is furred and feathered game
lacking to minister to the wants of the invalid and shed its graces
on the board of the epicure. The poor may have their ice as well as
the rich; and with her vast granaries America can provision the globe
with the staff of life. Her territory is unlimited and its fertility
unsurpassed. He who wills may possess his plot of garden ground, and,
like Marvell, reckon the lapse of time by the ripening of his fruits
and the blossoming of his flowers. In time, perchance, an American
judge may rise to emphasise the sentiment of Henrion de Pensey, the
French magistrate, who thus expressed himself to three of the most
distinguished scientists of their day: "I consider the discovery of a
dish which sustains our appetite and prolongs our pleasures as a far
more interesting event than the discovery of a star, for we have always
stars enough; and I shall not regard the sciences as sufficiently
honoured or adequately represented amongst us until I see a cook in the
first class of the Institute."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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