The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"The farmers and farm-hands for miles around could be relied upon to
be on hand to catch the fish. The shad could not ascend the river
beyond this point, and the water was fairly alive with them. Fifty or
more would be taken in a short time. While this work was going on,
Breckinridge, who never fished, would throw himself upon the grassy
bank of the canal and listen to the playing of the violin by one or the
other of two brothers named West, who were possessed of wonderful skill
with the bow, the negro field-hands often joining in a dance. At noon
the shad would be properly planked, under the personal supervision of
Breckinridge, and put before a red-hot fire, and in a few minutes the
royal feast would begin, right where they were cooked, the landlady
supplying plates, knives, and forks. When the appetite was satisfied,
another season of lounging would follow, when one of the two brothers
would resume his playing on the violin. As the sun got low in the
heavens, Breckinridge would start back to town, after telling them all
to come around the next Sunday. The love of these country people for
Breckinridge knew no bounds; they worshipped him, and he was thoughtful
of them.
"Well, John C. Breckinridge was, as you all know, a candidate of the
Southern wing of the Democratic party for the Presidency in 1860. We
remember the result of that gigantic struggle. The section where those
pleasant Sundays were spent in another year became a battle-ground,
and the placid fishers scattered far and wide. A new generation has
sprung up and another war been fought, and the name of Breckinridge is
forgotten in that region; but the art of planking shad as taught by him
not only lives but spreads abroad each year."
Thus, at least, runs the story. But it has also been stated that the
art of planking should be credited to the Swedes, who are said to have
brought the fish-plank with them among their household effects, when,
in 1634, they settled on the banks of the Delaware, a river famous
for its wild duck and shad. The planking of fish has equally been
attributed to the American aborigines, who subsisted to a great extent
on the spoils of the woods and waters. The shad itself, at any rate, is
an indigenous product; and there are those who maintain that it is not
improved by planking, but is best when simply broiled to a turn over
the charcoal, with parsley and butter sauce and a _filet_ of lemon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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