The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Yet a hundredfold more important than the shad and his left-bower, the
cucumber, is the vegetable that may be placed almost side by side with
bread in the value it contributes to the sustenance of mankind--the
potato, which the world owes to the western hemisphere, and whose
introduction produced so great an economical revolution among the
peoples of the earth. And were the potato itself lacking, the _Apios
tuberosa_, or ground-nut, with its violet-scented blossoms--a tuber in
use by the aborigines--would stand ready as a substitute, and yield
innumerable varieties under cultivation. Although the early history of
the potato is obscure and has been the subject of much discussion, the
great botanist De Candolle states that its true home is Chili, where it
grows wild; that before the discovery of America its cultivation was
diffused from Chili to New Grenada; that it was introduced about the
latter part of the sixteenth century into Virginia and North Carolina,
and, finally, was imported into Europe between 1580 and 1585, first by
the Spaniards and afterwards by the English at the time of Sir Walter
Raleigh's voyages to Virginia. The first potato was planted on Sir
Walter's estate in Cork, and employed for food in Ireland many years
before it became familiar to England, the esculent still remaining
the truffle of the Emerald Isle. Gerarde, long before the Lyonnaise
or pomme soufflée was dreamed of, defines two varieties--the _Sisarum
Peruvianum_, or skirret, of Peru, and the _Battata Virginiana_, or
Virginian potato. In his "Great Herbal" the qualities of the "battata"
are thus set forth: "The temperature and virtues be referred to the
common Potatoes, being likewise a food, as also a meate for pleasure,
equall in goodnesse and wholesomenesse unto the same, being either
toasted in the embers, or boyled and eaten with oyle, vinegar and
pepper, or dressed in any other way by the hand of some cunning in
cookerie." The origin of the sweet potato is more doubtful, a number of
authorities holding to its American and others to its Asiatic origin,
though Brazil is usually credited as being the land of its genesis.
During the old colony days of the eighteenth century catfish and
waffle suppers were in great repute in the taverns on the picturesque
Schuylkill near Philadelphia, these being still popular, though
planked shad is more commonly called for. The turtle was a great
favourite with our epicurean forefathers, who were accustomed
frequently to hold turtle feasts or, as they were then termed, turtle
frolics. Returning sea captains from the West Indies were expected to
bring home a turtle for this purpose, together with a keg of limes,
lime-juice being considered the best of all tart accompaniments for
the punch-bowl. Of these feasts, with their accessories, a travelling
clergyman named Burnaby gave this account in 1759:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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