The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The corrective for such a state of things is difficult to prescribe,
unless it be a better understanding on the part of the housewife and
the establishment of cooking-classes in all female schools. Another
remedy might be to imitate the French of two hundred years ago, and
provide an entertaining illustrated text-book for children, artfully
designed to foster a love of gastronomy. Thus, in a work of this nature
entitled "Roast Pig," the text is freely interlarded with appetising
pictures of viands and table scenes, accompanied by such maxims as
these: "A well-minced ham is fine eating, but not without something to
drink"; "pâté of venison and craquelins are not intended for naughty
children"; "damask prunes are delicious to eat for those who deserve
them"; "venison is better in a pâté than with any sauces, if it is well
seasoned and accompanied with wine."[32]
[Illustration: "RÔTI-COCHON"
Facsimile page from volume, 1696]
The excellence of the _morale_ of a work of this nature cannot fail to
impress itself on those of mature years whose incentive to learning in
youth was more often the ruler and the rod than sugar-plums and wine.
But while the advantages of such a method for moulding the youthful
taste are to be extolled, it presents the objection that much valuable
time must elapse before the results would become tangible, and hence
its benefits would accrue too late save for the younger generation and
its successors.
It were well, withal, in furtherance of the advance of the art, if a
society were formed for the suppression of the filet, the consommé
with whipped cream, and also the sweetbread in its usual form, which
are so frequently employed in "company" dinners, the bill of fare
of which is left by the housewife to the cook or the purveyor who is
engaged for the day. In such cases the guest often needs no menu to
know what is forthcoming--the lukewarm Blue Points, the flavourless
broth, the overdone halibut, the tasteless tenderloin and green peas,
and the half-mixed salad deluged with tarragon vinegar. As for the
wines, one may be reasonably sure of a woody-tasting sherry, a sour
and watery "claret," and a still more asperous _brut_ champagne that
is doled out, when appetite has waned, to chill the dessert and render
the sweets the more indigestible. Not that this menu is the general
rule by any means in the United States, but it is of far too frequent
occurrence, and should be placed under ban--a charge that concerns
the host and hostess alike. For whatever difficulty the mistress may
experience in procuring trained culinary skill, a simple bill of fare,
daintily served, is always at her command; while there can be no excuse
on the part of the master for presenting a sharp _brut_ champagne at
the end of the repast, if indeed it be presented at all; and as for
a reputable Bordeaux, if such be not in his cellar, it is or should
be obtainable at his club. Where champagne is permitted to diffuse
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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